Palanger, Lithuania

This was my third trip to Lithuania, and I like the country very much. My previous stays have been in the capital Vilnius.  My day started early to catch a coach to Luton airport, and then flew to Kaunas and a taxi awaited me at the airport to take me to my hotel in the centre of Kaunas. After a good night’s sleep and a hearty continental breakfast I waited outside my hotel for my friend. I had a interesting conversation with a Ukrainian man who I just managed to gather where he was from and he didn’t like Russia. He shook my hand several times. I was picked up and driven to Palanga, a seaside resort some 230 km from Kaunas.

The day was overcast with occasional light rain but it was quite mild, and walking along the shore line was pleasant, looking out onto the Baltic Sea. There were various species of gull flying about. We saw some pintail in flight and eiders out at sea, also spotted a white tailed eagle some distance out at sea. In the wooded area we saw typical woodland birds, including short toed and common treecreeper, goldcrest, nuthatch, jay, great spotted woodpeckers, as well as jackdaws, ravens, hooded crows and rooks. The highlight was a brambling, my first of the year. There were many tit flocks, six species noted but no crested tits were spotted.

Our evening was spent in Palanger, and although it was quiet there, in mid October it is clear that this is a popular seaside resort in the summer months. We were informed that Midge Ure was performing in Palanga the following night. We didn’t ask if there was any tickets for sale. I had decided that I would try only Lithuanian dishes in my stay there, and almost all dishes seem to include potatoes, nice, but also very filling.

Wonderful autumn colours

We started early after a good night’s sleep at our excellent hotel, taking a packed breakfast with us. The clouds had cleared and it was a very different day. The car windscreen was caked in thick ice. After about an hour’s drive we walked along the shore line and the sea was as calm as I have seen it. There were various gulls and cormorants flying. There were other birds further out, and there was a large migration movement. We saw six species of raptors including buzzard, merlin and goshawk. A “V” of whooper swan flew close by to us. It was a fantastic morning and we picked up many small amber stones. Close to the holiday homes there were hawfinch, siskin and bullfinch in the trees and always a treat, black redstarts. We also saw a lesser spotted woodpecker.

Great black backed gull

Arriving back at Palanger we had time to go to the local park, which I have to say is one of the best maintained parks I have seen. It was large with many varieties of trees and flora. A large museum was in the centre of the park, with gardens in excellent condition. In the tall trees the usual woodland birds, but we did pick out a middle spotted woodpecker.

Interesting watching this Jay, making a hole in the bin bag and stealing the bread

After another Lithuanian dish at out hotel, of pancakes that once again proved to be too filling for me to finish, and no hint that Ultravox’s former lead singer was in town. We had an early night for another early start on Sunday, taking a packed breakfast we set off for our highlight of the short trip, to Ventes Rajas. It is a ringing station further along the coast. The day weather wise was very different with the cloud cover back. It was quite windy at the station and frequent showers. We met a bird ringer who gave us a short demonstration of a female great tit being ringed after being caught in the nets. She was a biology teacher from Vilnius, and she had taken part in the counting birds day the day before. She told us shortly before we had arrived she had ringed a Northern hawk owl and showed us a picture on her phone. We didn’t stay too long because it was very windy but we did see some goldeneye and red breasted mergansers in flight. Our bird ringing friend advised us to call at some fisheries near to Kintai, more inland and less windy. We were grateful to her because we saw some magnificent birds near to the fisheries, including six white tailed eagles. There were over 100 whooper swans dropping in and flying off. We saw some waders in the mud including golden plover, spotted redshanks, dunlin, wood sandpipers and lapwing. Also some teal and smew in flight. The highlight was seeing the magnificent eagles, both in flight and perched on rocks in the lake. They looked huge just sitting, waiting for their next meal.

We then started our return to Kaunas and stopped off in a wooded area and although it was quiet we managed to pick up crested tits in amongst the other six species of tit. Almost 70 species seen and very little in the way of wildfowl, and they are expected to arrive when the weather gets colder.

On the way to the airport we stopped off at a restaurant and I had an unusual Lithuanian dish; potato sausages, that I couldn’t finish off. I was beginning to think I can’t eat as much as I used to. I usually never leave any food. The flight back home took longer because of a tail wind, about three hours and landed at midnight at Luton. I had earlier booked a hotel at the airport and set off the next morning by coach to arrive back in Liverpool in the afternoon. For me Lithuania is a fantastic country, and although it doesn’t attract as many birders as Estonia does, I am sure it won’t be long before it does.

West and east of Riga

My day started early on Saturday when I boarded a coach in Liverpool for a 10.30 am flight from Manchester. The flight was over 2 hours and we were packed in like sardines, with little leg room. It was an uncomfortable journey, but I did my best to make the time pass quickly, by reading, sudoku and sleeping.

Arriving in Riga, I located the bus stop and bought my bus ticket. I am amazed that a 40 minute journey was as cheap as 60 cents, a mere 50p. Another bus journey found me at my hotel, but no time for bird watching. All I managed to see were house and tree sparrows and hooded crows.

My breakfast at the hotel was good, but only started at 8.00 am so I did not have a great deal of time to digest my food, because my train was at 9.20 from Riga Central station, which included a bus journey. My destination was Kemeri National Park, taking about 1 hour. A mere 4 euros for a return trip, the downside being the train stopped frequently and was packed. The weather was warm and a moderate breeze. It is doubtful that anyone will ever get away with paying the correct fare on the trains in Latvia because the ticket inspectors are there checking your ticket within seconds of the journey starting. They checked and stamped my ticket three times for one journey.

I found my way from Kemeri railway station to the National park, via the Information centre. Along the way I came across a flock of fieldfare, jays, nuthatches, blue and great tits, robin and chaffinch. My first destination was Lake Sloka, a huge inland lake, but I managed to lose my way in the forest, assuming I took a wrong turn somewhere. In the breeze it wasn’t easy to hear the bird calls, but did see a number of crested, willow, marsh tits. When I did locate the lake  I had to walk past a guard dog, who would not let me pass without letting anyone who was within a radius of 100 metres that I was about. I saw large numbers of diving ducks, including pochard, tufted, goldeneye and scaup. Also mallards, gadwall and widgeon. There were a number of coots and mute swans, with some great white egrets in the distance, also the odd great crested grebe.

Chiffchaff

Finding my way back I spotted a great spotted woodpecker, the first I had seen or heard. I saw a viper that luckily kept its distance from me. I was a bit disappointed that I didn’t see larger numbers of birds, but seeing the weather forecast for the next day I thought I would try Kemeri again. I was glad I did, because I saw quite a few different species, but I did try a different route to get to Lake Sloka, although I couldn’t avoid barking Buster. On the “spring route” I saw a black woodpecker and was pleased to take a photo. It was moving about but luckily stayed long enough for me to get a snap. I saw a number of great spotted woodpeckers, and a lesser spotted woodpecker. A flock of long tailed tits joining other tits. I frequently saw and heard marsh and willow tits, noticing the willow tits have paler cheeks that those in UK. The long tailed tits having white heads. I found my way to the tower hide at the lake, and saw a black woodpecker in flight. On the lake I saw much of what I saw the day before, but there seemed to be more of them. Among the many mute swans was a whooper.

Black woodpecker

I made my way back to the railway station and came across some black redstarts by an old derelict factory, also the odd white wagtail. Somewhere on the way back I took a wrong turn again and only made the train with a minute to spare. Giving me just another minute to find my train ticket for snarling Sally.

My last day in Riga took me to Sigulda, in the opposite direction to Kemeri. My flight wasn’t until 10.50 pm so I had the full day. I was grateful the hotel allowed me to leave my luggage in the hotel until the evening to save carrying it around. Sigulda is a pleasant tourist town about 53 km east of Riga. Snarling Sally’s twin sister was on board and checked my ticket immediately. I arrived in Sigulda just before midday which gave me about four hours. In the region is Gauja national park, with the river Gauja running through. The scenery is spectacular. I made my way down 430 steps to the bottom of the valley. I saw a short toed treecreeper, along with nuthatches and great spotted woodpeckers. A few ravens were flying above and a number of jays. Here I noticed the colour of the leaves, a reminder autumn was upon us.

Gauja river

I saw about 50 species, not as much as previous trips, but still enjoyable and Kemeri National Park will be well worth exploring in the spring. I was without my telescope on this trip and would probably have seen more on Lake Sloka.

I made it back to Riga International Airport, and after a long wait at the terminal and for my coach at Manchester. I arrived home at 2 am, thinking about where I would be going next.....

East Poland Trip

A birding trip to the most easterly point of Poland may not appeal to everyone but it was for me the best by a country mile. I didn’t have the best of starts to the holiday, having an early flight from Heathrow meant a hotel near to terminal 1 the night before. I set my alarm for 3 am, took a shower, and then the shower tap got stuck and wouldn’t turn off. In trying to turn it off I managed to turn the temperature to its highest, which also stuck. Panicking I quickly dressed and with luggage in tow I rushed down to the desk to check out of my hotel, sweating like an Olympic 100m runner on the hottest day of summer. I told them of the running shower, also afraid that the steam might set off the alarm. I couldn’t hang around to find out the outcome.

I arrived at the airport LOT Polish Airlines check in desk and met up with my fellow holidayers. We arrived in Warsaw to heavy rain, and thick black clouds. The mini bus was picked up from a Polish company called Panek, which led to the inevitable “don’t panic Captain Mainwearing” quotes. and we set off on our journey, about 220 km east. We stopped about half way for lunch, and picked up some nice birds in the wooded area by the café, including a great spotted woodpecker feeding in a rubbish bin. Not somewhere you would normally find one. We set off again and later through a hail storm to end all hail storms. We arrived at our hotel in Bialowieza and it looked (and was) fabulous. We had an evening meal and then had a walk in the local park to check out the surroundings and immediately some interesting birds, spotted flycatchers, black redstarts, icterine warblers, thrush nightingales and great reed warblers. In the trees were wryneck and great spotted woodpeckers and a honey buzzard flying right above the car park. There were nesting starlings in the trees by the hotel. There was very little on the lake in the park, but we saw white storks there, the first of many during our weeks stay in Poland. One mistake I made was forgetting to put on my insect repellent and all the midges and mosquitos must have been seen me coming as they all came for me. There must be something about my blood they like.

Great Reed warbler

After a good night’s sleep, forgetting all about hot showers and taps that don’t work, some of us had a pre-breakfast walk and we walked along an old railway line for an hour or so. Here we saw river, barred, icterine, great reed and sedge warblers. We saw golden orioles, thrush nightingales and snipe making their delightful drumming noise.

After a taking a shower, which worked, we had a continental breakfast and packed a lunch from the leftovers, we set off in the mini bus. Caked in insect repellent I still managed to get some more bites that I must have missed rubbing on my skin. We set off to the Belarus border, passing the border guards with their rifles. We drove along a path that was only a few feet from the border. We saw two turtle doves fly off from Belarus into Poland. Amongst many stops in various habitats we came across black storks, lesser spotted eagles, middle spotted and white backed woodpeckers. Marsh, savi’s, icterine, sedge, great reed, garden, willow and river warblers, as well as the common chiffchaff, whitethroat, lesser whitethroat and blackcap, it was certainly a warbling day. We saw a wonderful male rosefinch, that grabbed everyone’s attention immediately. Also hawfinch, serin and red backed and great grey shrikes.

Our evening visit was to see great snipe, but we were warned about insect repellent and wellingtons. I wore my special shirt and another dose of repellent we stood in standing water in the swamp at dusk for over an hour for the great snipe to appear. When we thought all was lost we saw them further to the right than we were looking. Only brief views in the fading light but heard the “Symphony of icicles”. Walking back we heard and saw a woodcock fly in the almost night sky. Arriving back at the bus we were impersonating Christopher Walkden dancing to Fatboy Slim. Me, of course, about three times as bad as the rest. Somehow I managed to get some sleep and up early for the pre-breakfast walk.

The next day was easily the best birding day I have ever experienced because we were going into the protected area in the primeval forest. We weren’t allowed in without a permit or a guide. We were taken in by Arek who has been a forester all his working life and he is an expert. What he doesn’t know about these forests is not worth knowing. It was quite an experience walking through the forest, along the paths that had been constructed by the Russians in the 18^th century. I would have liked to have stopped a few times to take everything in but we were hurried through because Arek was on quite a tight schedule and we had quite a distance to walk to come across a nesting black woodpecker. Also the delightfully tuneful red breasted flycatcher, although when we managed to see it, there was no red breast. For me this bird was the star of all the 150 species we came across, 16 of which were lifers. Later he took us to other sites, although not in the protected areas. We came across grey headed woodpeckers, three toed woodpeckers and pygmy owls. The sighting of the three toed woodpecker was quite an achievement for me as I have now seen all 10 European woodpeckers. 

Still severely itching all over, I managed to get a good night’s sleep and make the pre breakfast walk. Seeing all the usual suspects in the park, it was wonderful hearing icterine warbler sing with their “squeaky toy” sound. We saw a river warbler sat up on a bush singing away. Birds not always seen were just a few feet away in full view.

After breakfast we set off. We had seen most of the target birds of the first leg of the holiday, but we still had an excellent day, with whooper swans seen, goldeneye, great crested grebes, nesting green sandpipers and many middle spotted woodpeckers, the highlights. Two quite exceptional mammals we encountered were pine marten and bison. Not too many people can say they have them those two animals on the same day. The pine marten was quite by chance and to see the way it made its way through the high canopies was incredible. It caused havoc with the birds with them all going mad. We all stood there watching, then the marten made its way down the tree at lightning speed and briefly stopped to look at us and then made its way off into the forest. The three bison we saw were in the distance then started to make their way toward us, so we had good views. One of the group wandered off into a field and saw the head and neck of a corncrake, but he was the only one. We heard many.

We had early start the next day, but a couple still managed to get a pre breakfast walk in, we were off to the Biebrza marshes with quite a few stops on the way. The habitats were quite different and our first target bird was heard and later seen, one of Europe’s rarest songbirds, the aquatic warbler. It was quite a find as we had been (unreliably) informed by a group of birders from Suffolk we had seen earlier, that there weren’t any there. Also seen here was a fast flying hobby and cranes flying in the distance, what a marvellous sound they have. We also came across common, black and whiskered terns, great white egrets, white tailed eagles, wood larks, hoopoes and blue headed yellow wagtails. In some of the wooded areas we saw crested tits and collared flycatchers. We also saw the delightful penduline tit gathering nesting material and we spotted the nest nearing completion.

Our new hotel was in Dobarz, and the setting was impressive, we sorted out our rooms and then quickly for an evening meal. There was no time for any rest during the day.

White Stork

I don’t know what it was about showers on this holiday, but I had a further mishap. I had noticed there was no shower gels in the room, so I took the soap dispenser into the shower cubicle. It was quite a posh one, pottery and quite heavy. I dropped the thing and it smashed and cut my foot. I didn’t have any soap left either. The bathroom was now beginning to resemble a scene from the film Physco. It was about 4.30 in the morning and was beginning to wish I hadn’t agreed to go on the pre breakfast walk, but make it I did and quickly forgot of my earlier woes when the birds were singing. Spotted flycatchers, house sparrows, black redstarts and swallows were close to our rooms. Walking along the road near the hotel we saw an ortolan bunting, golden oriole, wood larks, icterine warblers, hawfinch and bullfinch, we could hear distant cranes and bitterns booming, and cuckoos, both near and far. Yellowhammers were everywhere and whinchat. The loud song of the thrush nightingale made you stop and try to get a glimpse.

After a breakfast that included pancakes we set off for a tour of the marshes, with a packed lunch, made up by the hotel staff. We found a number of tower hides and had some delights. My 2^nd favourite bird of the tour was the white winged black tern. I have seen them before but when they fly past just a few feet away their wonderful plumage is revealed. They were plentiful as well as black terns and common terns. There were some garganey being flushed by marsh harriers and montague harriers. We had a close view of a pair of Montys. We saw black and white storks flying high, the black stork is so graceful. More waders in the marshes too with lapwing, snipe, breeding black tailed godwits and redshank. We were able to see Elk in the marshes and in one scene, a white tailed eagle landed close to the moose. Photographic opportunities were taken.

Elk and White tailed eagle

We had an excellent meal at the hotel, and the draught beer was back on thankfully after having run dry the night before.

The next morning started early as ever, but we tried a tour of a swampy area and walked through a wooded area to get there. There was so much to see, and we had to be selective in what we stopped for. Thrush nightingale and golden orioles are certainly birds worth stopping for as well as hawfinch. We found the swampy area and saw that some Germans had beat us to it. We saw immediately that they were recording bird song so we just waved our greetings. We saw a raised platform that was originally built to view great snipe, but they are no longer there. There were plenty of common snipe though displaying. We saw cuckoos, yellowhammer, whinchat, whitethroat and sedge warblers. We also saw yet another warbler, grasshopper warbler, our first view of the week. A majestic goshawk also flew close by.

After another nice breakfast we set off for our last full day and we actually saw over 90 species in the day. We visited some private fish ponds, where we needed a permit to enter. Some great birds here included temminck’s stint, wood sandpiper, little ringed plover, ruff, black tailed godwits, redshank, whooper swan, little grebe and common tern. Here surprisingly we had our first view of linnet. Later we saw ruddy turnstone and dunlin, as well as five species of tern, with about half a dozen little tern which surprised all. We tried a site that may have had the Syrian woodpecker but none were spotted. From a tower hide we had close views of otters, which had everyone rushing to the viewing spot, fantastic animals.

Black tailed godwit

We tried a sand quarry and saw about 10 bee eaters nesting, with sand martins close by. Here we had a brief view of a tawny pipit and a quail was heard but not seen. Whinchats and great grey shrikes were seen perched too. It was approaching 30 degrees centigrade which had me caked in sun screen and insect repellent. My dilemma was what to put on first. There was an easy answer, insect repellent after the sun screen. After an exhausting day there were not many that had a late night due to our early breakfast at 6.15 am. Well that was the plan because there breakdown in communication because the Polish waitresses thought it was 6.50. Two of us also were up at dawn breaking to see our last birds. Not much time but we still managed over 30 species.

It had been a fantastic week in Poland, my fifth visit to this wonderful country, with a further three visits planned later this year and early next year to Wroclaw, Warsaw and Szczecin. I really should start to learn the language.

We made it back to Frederick Chopin airport at Warsaw, then to Heathrow, where the lower temperature and dark rain clouds reminded us we were back in England.

Don't panic and the case of the missing fruit

My second trip to Berlin this year, took me to Spandau, the north west region of the city. My flight from Liverpool was full, and was on time and knowing where I was going certainly helps as I was away from the airport and on the S9 train within minutes. I had first called at the Tourist Information desk to buy a Berlin Welcome Card, that allows me to travel anywhere in Inner and outer Berlin for the five days I was there. I arrived at Rathaus Spandau and it was only a ten minute walk from the U Bahn or 3 stops on the 130 bus to my hotel. Berlin has wonderful street and place names, I was staying in Steegefelder Strausse, and my train interchange was Jungfernheide.

My hotel was comfortable, but I was wondering how I was going to manage with the receptionist, who knew as much English as I know German. I managed to get the key to my room and looked through my German phrase book to get me through the week.

My first morning I started with Spandauer Forst, with a 9 stop bus journey on the M45 bus to Johannesstift. I took only a few steps into the Forest and there was a mass of bird calling, most notably nuthatch. In the huge forested area I encountered three species of woodpecker, great, middle and lesser spotted. Other delights were hawfinch, bullfinch, crossbill and siskin, crested and marsh tit. I saw both common treecreeper and short toed treecreeper, as well as the more common species like blue tit, great tit and the delightful white headed long tailed tit.  It is quite easy to lose yourself in the many paths, although it was slow going as there were constant tap, tap, tapping from the branches. Hoping I might see a black woodpecker I mostly saw great spotted and it wasn’t always easy spotting them. I was walking down one path and suddenly saw a sound of wild boar trotting towards me, I tried to keep calm, thought of Corporal Jones and looked around for a tree to climb. Fortunately the male boar stopped after seeing me and his band followed suit. After staring at each other for a few seconds he turned right and off down another path, followed by his piglets. I was rather fortunate as there weren’t any trees that looked climbable.

This wild boar was behind a fence

I came across a small lake called Laßzinssee but not too much bird life apart from Mallards and Coots, viewed from a raised platform. I followed the path called Berliner Mauer Weg, the Berlin Wall Trail, which I strolled along for a while, keeping a watchful eye for wild pigs. I heard some calling and couldn’t make out what it was before looking up I saw about 100 migrating cranes, flying high above the tallest pylons I have ever seen. I made my way back to the bus terminus, after a full day in the forest.

My next day I went to Flughafensee, next to Tegel Airport which is Berlin’s main airport, with planes taking off every 2 minutes. It was quite a large lake but not much on show apart from mallards, cormorants and the odd heron. I did manage to see a green woodpecker in the wooded area.  I walked up to the U Bahn and went two stops to Tegel, where Berlin’s second biggest lake is. Tegel See is a wonderful place which during the summer must be just teeming with visitors. Alongside the lake is Tegel Forst, where I saw the usual woodland birds I saw the day before. On the lake were hundreds of coots and mallards, with little grebe, great crested grebe. Also many diving ducks, tufted ducks and pochards mainly but small numbers of goldeneye too. Nearer to the town were mute swans and most of the Canada geese I saw were ringed.

Mute swan on Tegel See

I can’t ever remember eating an apple before for breakfast, but I did on Thursday. I recall from the Peckers and Lizsters tour that the lunch was made up from the breakfast buffet. I couldn’t ask the waitress if this was allowed because she couldn’t speak any English. I decided to raid the fruit bowl instead rather than make up sandwiches. I took a banana and apple and put the banana  in the pocket of my jumper whilst the waitress wasn’t looking. I tried to do the same with the apple but realised hawkeyed Heidi had spotted me  and I then modified the action to start eating it instead. Maybe because there were no banana skins or apple cores on my empty breakfast plate previous days, she had cottoned on to what I was doing.

Later, minus an apple, I wanted to try Krumme Lanke again, after visiting the area earlier in the year, and I started out earlier. I ended up arriving late after missing my stop at Fehrberliner Platz, thinking I should travel to Hermannplatz.  I was just taken in by the Berlin rush hour because every available space was taken on the train, sitting and standing. The birds around Krumme lanke, with a wooded area surrounding  the lake were numerous. In February I saw the black woodpecker, but not so lucky on this occasion. Lots of great spotted and the odd middle spotted. On the lake were mandarins, mallards, pochards, tufted ducks and cormorants, also great crested grebe in winter plumage. Another lake about twice the size, Schlachtensee, was close by and it took about two hours to walk round. It was getting dark as I made my way back to the U bahn, travelling through my favourite Onkle Toms Hutte station. The English translation is Uncle Tom’s Cabins. A local landlord built cabins for his guests to shelter from the rain in his beer garden in the 19^th century. They don’t have station names that that where I live.

The picturesque Schlachtensee

My last day, with the fruit bowl having disappeared at breakfast, I checked out of my Hotel and travelled on the S bahn to Tiergarten close to the Brandenburg gates. The park is huge in the centre of Berlin, with a number of small ponds with mallards and mandarin ducks resident. Last time I was fortunate to see a goshawk and I was hoping I would be lucky again as I only had about 2 hours to find them. I was in the park about 30 seconds and a huge female goshawk flew close by and perched on a branch, which had me scrambling for my bins. A couple of cyclists also stopped to take a look. A great view and then it flew out of sight. Sitting on a bench in the park, I saw bird behaviour that was just great. There seemed to be a small patch that many birds were attracted to. The pecking order seemed to be blackbird, nuthatch, tree sparrow, great tit and blue tit. The many nuthatches seemed to take it out on the great tits. I later encountered a number of finches, including hawfinch, greenfinch, chaffinch, goldfinch and siskin.

I made my way to Schoenefeld Airport, after a fabulous few days, everything was on time and even the budget airline were following the German example of efficiency. My bus home was running 20 minutes late, a reminder I was back in Britain.

Trip to Isle of Man

Instead of flying east from Liverpool, I went north west, to the Isle of Man. At Liverpool John Lennon airport, there was delay announcement after delay announcement, apology after apology because of the French air traffic controllers strike. I was able to stroll straight through, and just a short 25 minute flight, I was at Ronaldsway before I was able to fasten my seat belt.

I took the bus to Douglas, and wanted to get rid of my luggage and walk the promenade and take in the Irish sea air. I was staying on the fifth floor of a four storey building and was in the fourth chimney pot on the right, my neighbour answered to the name of Jack. My alarm call at dawn was a herring gull calling in gull language “hello world”.

My breakfast was fruit juice, a full English, cereal, toast and tea or coffee, that set me up for the day. I usually like an early breakfast but had to start at 8 am. I took a bus to Port Erin and saw immediately a pair of Eiders in the bay. Although the day was sunny, there was quite a wind blowing. I walked to Port St Mary, taking a detour to the Calf of Man. Here I saw gannets, shags, more eiders, and looked up to see 8 whooper swans, flying towards Martin Mere.

There were lots of seals resting on the rocks. I called in at the Sound café and was fortunate to call in when I did as a coach load arrived shortly after. House martins and swallows were still here, and I was delighted to see stonechats, one of my favourite birds, also rock pipits and pied wags. I continued onto Port St Mary, passing through Cregneash, then onto Castletown, seeing wigeon and teal on the shore line, then that higher pitched call “Jack”, Choughs were performing their acrobatics.

I went to Port Erin the following day and went right towards Peel, I set off hoping to make my way along the coast towards Dalby and then Peel, my book said 16 miles. I made it three years ago. I saw stonechats again, meadow and rock pipits, ravens and choughs, rooks and jackdaws.

I made my way from  Milner’s Tower and down into a valley and then made my way up again on the other side and then I noticed my camera lens cap was missing. My first reaction was to turn back and tried to retrace my steps. Half way down I decided was it worth it? It is only a lens cap, I can get another, so I made my way back up again. Then, a change of mind, I decided to find it, thinking I might not be able to get another cap that fits. It was a needle in a haystack job. I found it right at the bottom of the valley and was relieved. Then I thought I would never make it to Peel, and decided to take a different route back to Port Erin. I saw a footpath through some woods and walked through the tightly packed conifers seeing tit flocks, robins, wrens and goldcrest. The path seemed to fizzle out and I could see the path I had come down towards the valley. The problem I faced was either making my way through about fifty yards of bramble to the path or going back along the route I had just come along. I chose the fifty yards to the path on the steep hill. With hindsight that wasn’t the best option. It is likely that no one had taken that route since Sweyn Forkbeard in 950 AD.  I had cuts on my arms and legs. I was hoping no one would spot me struggling to make my way through the thick bramble. I don't think they did.

I made it back to the path. Walking back up the hill was a struggle and it was now quite warm and my coat had to come off. Eventually I found my way back to Port Erin. I found a park bench for a rest and closed my eyes for five minutes. I woke up, looked down and my lens cap was missing.

The next day, after another hearty breakfast, I stated my next destination to my landlady, who always wore a blue hairnet. Laxey I told her, and I set off passing a post box and posted my application form for the Krypton Factor, after yesterday’s exploits.

I was dropped off by the Laxey Wheel, and made my way along the coastal path. I took detours to two private nature reserves, making sure this time to keep to the main paths. Choughs, jackdaws and hooded crows were showing well along the coast along with many herring gulls. In the second nature reserve I saw teal, tufted duck, mallards, coot and little grebe.

It was warm again and the detours I took made the distance about 14 miles, so was fairly tired when I made it to Onchan Hill. Then down to Douglas, where I saw turnstone, curlew, oystercatcher and redshank on the beach. There were herring gulls, great black backed and black headed gulls, as well as many rock pipits and pied wagtails feeding on the seaweed.

Monday, saw me going in the same direction, but past Laxey through to Ramsey. I didn’t want to walk as much and walked at a sedate pace. On the front I saw Canada geese, mute swan and cormorants in amongst all the boats. Walking along the beach I saw turnstone, ringed plover, oystercatchers and curlew. Later walking along the north shore I saw a peregrine falcon causing havoc amongst the oystercatchers. It was the only raptor I saw. I stumbled across Ballure reservoir run by the Manx Water Authority and although looked a great place for birding I didn’t see any birds on the lake. The notice board did suggest that wildfowl do over winter there, they just hadn’t arrived yet. I walked around a pleasant wooded area and saw a large tit flock, goldfinch, siskin and goldcrest. It was getting on and made the long bus journey to Douglas.

My last day I didn’t want to spend too far away from Douglas and went to Summerhill Glen, on the way to Onchan, where I used to stay in the early seventies in the summer holidays with my Aunty. It was again a lovely warm day and I was fortunate that hairnet Harriet allowed me to keep the luggage at the hotel after I had checked out. I later went on the promenade and was delighted to see two red throated divers in the harbour. One was being harassed by a herring gull whenever it resurfaced.

I collected my luggage and bussed it to Ronaldsway for my 5 pm flight. As I entered the airport I was thinking how things had run smoothly. I looked at the tv monitor to check my flight, and was surprised to see a message I hadn’t seen before: “bag drop suspended”. Not sure what that meant I sat waiting for it to change. Then an announcement, the entire network for my airline was down and no check- ins for taking place until it was fixed. Another flight to Gatwick had been delayed for 2 hours.

I was glad when I heard that the check in was reassuming and could all Liverpool passengers make their way to leave their luggage. I presented my boarding pass and passport to the assistant, she looked at the computer and said my name wasn’t on the list. I was surprised as I had just given her the boarding pass. She called her supervisor and then printed off a new boarding pass. I made my way to the departure lounge and then went to go through Customs. I was just about to hand my pass over when I saw that Loopy Linda had given me a pass for London Gatwick. I quickly made my way back to the check in desk and she had the correct pass waiting for me. I was in a bit of a panic as the flight was due to depart in 20 minutes. No problems getting through Customs but whilst I was boarding the plane I had a horrible thought. Where was my luggage going to end up, Gatwick or Liverpool? I had an uncomfortable flight wondering what would become of them.

I nervously waiting at the baggage reclaim area, and breathed a sigh of relief when my case came out of the conveyor belt. Out of interest I looked at the stickers on the case and saw one for Liverpool and one for Gatwick. I had somehow got away with it.

I had an enjoyable few days in the Isle of Man despite changing boarding passes and missing lens caps with about 70 species of birds seen. If I make it over there again I might take the Isle of Man Steam packet ferry.

Rob

Hungary trip

Fourteen of us went on a memorable Hungarian trip to Bukk Hills. This was the Peckers and Liszters second trip to Hungary, with 6 of us having made the trip in spring last year. For many of us, there were plenty of birds we have never seen before in store, including eight species of woodpecker, white tailed and imperial eagles, and long eared owls. Some lovely treats later when the weather improved with Queen of Spain Fritillary, Clouded yellow and Eastern bath white butterflies. Three things that come to mind about our trip. Lowra, shelduck and Manu, more about them later.

We all arrived at the Rocket just before noon for a mini bus ride to Manchester airport. The flight arrived on time, and we were met at the airport by Ged, author, tour guide, expert on woodpeckers and wearer of dodgy Hungarian hats and Atilla, the driver. A two hour drive to the Nomad hotel in a small village called Noszvaj. Ged has been living many years in Hungary and his pronunciation has been influenced by speaking Hungarian, because Laura became “ Low” (sounds like Pow) ra.

The anticipation was building, when we saw the hotel. We had ten minutes to grab a key for our rooms, a quick wash and the meal was ready for us, the first of many excellent dishes. We were given the itinerary from Ged. He likes to keep things simple and we were told, seven, eight and nine to remember for the next morning, seven for the pre breakfast walk, eight for breakfast, and nine for the mini bus ride.  We were introduced to the tour mascot: Manu, that was not appreciated by everyone, but adored by the Everton contingent of the group.

The next morning, most complained about not having slept very well, but we all made the pre breakfast walk at 7. Whilst waiting for the walk to start, we saw great spotted woodpecker, song thrush, blackbird, jay and great tit. In the road leading to the park we saw black redstart, tree sparrow, marsh tit and nuthatch. In the boating lake there were four mallards that greeted us each morning.

Within the first hour, surrounded by wooded hills we had spotted some fantastic birds, including for most a “lifer” grey headed woodpecker, also great spotted woodpeckers. Ravens were soaring high, as well as buzzards and sparrowhawks. Also flying were redwing and white wagtails. We saw chiffchaffs and willow warblers flitting about in the branches.  It was amusing to compare the long tailed tits from those that we see in the UK with their white heads. Whilst on our way back some were fortunate to see a black woodpecker, flying away from us. The bird appeared to wake up at 7.45 am.

After a good breakfast, we made our own sandwiches and rolls for a packed lunch for later. The highlight being the Eggy bread, and the owner was christened by Rhodie as the eggy bread lady.

The tour really started at 9am when we set off for the Bukk Hills in the mini bus. We arrived at Hor Valley, the weather was getting colder and a bit windy, autumn was here. Buzzards were soaring, linnets, goldfinch and chaffinches were seen, everyone with their binoculars at the ready, not wanting to miss out on our target birds. Neil volunteered, or was he deliberately chosen?, to search for a tawny owl. With a stick he tried to flush one out from a hole in a tree, with Ged calling to “keep your face away from the hole”.

He didn’t manage to flush the owl, the hole was empty. Neil had trouble getting back to the path. We were searching now for the white backed woodpecker. It was proving elusive, despite Ged’s calls to attract them. There was evidence of them, and Ged pointed out the signs on the hornbeam trees, where the white backed feed on the wood-boring beetle larvae. 

Along the way we saw treecreeper, nuthatch and robins, middle and great spotted woodpeckers were also seen. A few managed to get a glimpse of some crossbills, Fantastic views, but still no white backed. Some were beginning to wonder whether we would see one at all, then when all appeared to be lost Ged heard the call, and Neil spotted the white backed. As it turned out the bird was voted the bird of the tour and was a “lifer” for most of us.

 It flew from tree to tree and then landed allowing great views and those who were alert were able to get a photo of the wonderful bird. On our way back to the mini bus we managed to see the Lesser spotted too. We were all relieved and feeling pleased with ourselves, we hadn’t doubted for a minute that the bird would show.

On our way back to the hotel we stopped at Cserepfalu, in search of the Syrian woodpecker, but we couldn’t find one. We also stopped at the Bogacs Reservoir and we saw mallards, small numbers of teal, heron and a few white wagtail. A debate started and continued about whether Tomo had seen a shelduck on the water. It gave rise to the creation of a new tour operator: Shelduck Tours.

We arrived back at the hotel and had an excellent meal with duck on the menu, apart from the Veggies. We wondered if there might be a duck less on the boating lake in Noszvaj. A check list of the birds spotted and everything else, including mammals, butterflies, insects and amphibians. 

Curiously shelduck was missing from the “official” list. We all dressed for the occasion and bright green, or any colour that stood out in honour of Arnie’s trainers. Sadly Arnie had changed the colour of his footwear at the last minute to the colour of royal blue. After many beers, palinkas and bacardi and (not very much coke) we headed back to our rooms, hoping that we hadn’t drank too much for the 7 o’clock walk next morning.

Most made the early call, with only a couple late, and they soon caught up. The wind was stronger and the temperature had dropped over night. It was a lot quieter than the day before and no grey headed woodpecker. The three drake and one female mallards were there to greet us and they weren’t caught for last night’s evening meal.

After another hearty breakfast and making up the packed lunches for later we set off on time, passing through Szentistvan, Tiszababolna and Poroszlo. In Szentistvan, we saw a roost of eight long eared owls. We had fabulous views and surprising for most that we were able to get so close, compared to viewing them in the UK. Tomo spotted a great grey shrike on a post, as we were driving, we managed to get some great shots. Later, we walked across a field and we had about an hour of a wonderful raptor experience. We saw hen harrier, buzzard, marsh harrier, imperial eagle, white tailed eagle, sparrowhawk and kestrel. Also we saw many swallows, skylark and crested lark, linnet and some lucky to spot a red throated pipit. Also spotted were Brown hares zigzagging across the fields.

In Tiszababolna we had a further treat when we saw Common crane (about 50), pygmy cormorant and Tyno was reminded every time a bird was flying by Ged, reference to us missing out on this small cormorant on the peckers and Liszters tour last year. We saw white tailed eagle, magnificently flying high. From a tower hide we saw spotted redshank, ruff and dunlin. In the fields walking back great white egrets, curlew and lapwing were seen. We saw common spadefoot toad and tree frog, and in the distance roe deer and a wily fox.

Later at lake Tisza, approaching our platform by the sluice gate, we flushed a purple heron. With our telescopes we saw little and great crested grebes, mallards, shovelers, teal and four ferruginous ducks in flight. In the distance we saw White tailed eagles, imperial eagles and marsh harriers. We were just packing up our telescopes when Tyno stayed behind for a short spell and we were grateful, as a little crake showed from the reeds. The nervous bird then was disturbed by a coot and didn’t make another appearance.  

The highlight of the day were two stops to see 20 roosting long eared owls, that had everyone out of the mini bus with their cameras, often risking crossing the road with plenty of traffic to get a better view.

We had had a great day with over 60 species of bird seen. We made our way back to the hotel and had another excellent meal, followed by our check list and the beer continued to flow. Despite a cold day, we had all thawed out.

The next, our last full day in Hungary, was a case of catching up on what birds that had been missed. The weather had improved, the wind had dropped, and the sun was shining. The seven o’clock start was notable for the green woodpecker, as well as the great and middle spotted woodpeckers.

Making our way at 9 am prompt we started at Hor Valley and were rewarded with some great bird including hawfinch, which had eluded us in previous days, linnet, yellowhammer, goldfinch and chaffinch. We saw plenty of buzzards and ravens flying high and jays flying from tree to tree. As the weather was warmer we saw lots of butterflies, including Queen of Spain Fritillary.

  

Carol took an excellent photograph of a Swallowtail caterpillar.

We stopped in two villages in search for the, so far, missing Syrian woodpecker. The first village was unsuccessful. The second after a refreshment break, whilst Anne and Lowra were showing off their table tennis skills, a Syrian was spotted and was proving to be difficult to get good views, but eventually, thanks to Neil again, we had great sightings, and we also had the local villagers out wondering who had invaded their peaceful day. Neil, had set the wheels in motion for his Shelduck tours venture, he could rival Ged in spotting the important birds.

The next stop at Bogacs Reservoir a surprise was in store for us, four black storks. We saw the magnificent birds in flight and in the water feeding. Also seen were grey plover, ruff, dunlin, pintail, teal and mallards. Butterflies were plentiful with Clouded Yellow, Small White, Red Admiral & Comma . Here, we saw a murmuration of starlings with a sparrowhawk disturbing them.

A wonderful beef goulash meal was awaiting us for our final meal, apart from the two vegetarians, who no doubt had an equally tasty meal. Second helpings were given to those who wanted more. Happy birthday wishes were sung, ever so slightly out of tune, to Atilla’s partner. More practice needed I think.

Everyone was getting ready for the evening when Arnie received a ransom note, written in Hungarian, Manu had been kidnapped and to ensure his safe return, Arnie was instructed to pay for the beer all night. Arnie was in a state of shock, how dare someone remove his beloved Manu and demand such things. He took it out on a startled Phil, and using an instrument usually reserved for slicing salami, Phil turned a whiter shade of pale, and swore his innocence. Arnie, taking great care, placed the knife in his trousers and took an unusual walk back to the kitchen to ensure the safe return. It was noticed nobody ate any salami in their sandwiches the next day.

A great debate had started, accusations and pleads of innocence were thrown from both sides. Then, suddenly the mystery had been solved, Barbara’s brother came into the room, with Manu. The safe return was ensured, without any ransom being paid. Arnie,  most relieved, slept soundly that night with half an eye open watching out for Manu on his bedside table.

The next morning, Friday and our last day, was a lovely morning and all the usual suspects were present in the park, with great, middle and lesser woodpeckers showing well. The four mallards were fed by Lowra, we would all miss them.

We set off on time again at 9 am getting much of our driving out of the way early, today we were in search of the great bustards. Making our way to Kiskunsag, Ged spotted a pair of black woodpeckers and we hung around for them to make a reappearance.

We set off again and called into a wooded area nearer to our destination  but no black woodpecker. We then tried for the bustards, and over lunch, a saker falcon was spotted in the distance, wonderful views. We thought we saw the bustards in the distance but it was a false alarm, just hooded crows.  Here we saw Eastern bath white and clouded yellow  butterflies.

Then whilst driving Ged called for Atilla to stop, he had spotted the great bustards, 8 of them, that later increased to 13. Then when watching them Rob spotted a goshawk that was flying low right in front of us. Another excellent day was now drawing to a close and when we stopped at a service station to say our goodbyes to Ged and Atilla before the airport, there was still time to see a distant Imperial eagle perched on a pylon, crested larks were in the car park, in amongst the Hungarian truckers.

Neil was supposed to be first to leave, for his flight to Barcelona, but as it turned out he left after us after the flight was delayed. We made it back to Manchester in one piece and everyone was rather tired after being travelling for most of the day. Two became one when we heard one of our coaches had been stolen, but that wasn’t going to spoil our holiday.

A big thank you to Ged, Chris, Laura and Tomo for the way the trip was organised, to Atilla for his excellent driving and patience. For everyone for sharing their expert knowledge , especially Carol and Rob and not forgetting the soil specialist in the group; Peaty. To Arnie, Neil, Rhodie, and Phil for keeping us entertained with their wit. Thanks also to everyone who shared their photographs. Everyone contributed to this holiday and it won’t be forgotten for some time.

Shelduck tours will be putting out flyers for the next tour, watch this space….

Rob

Trip to Poznan

My second trip to Poland this year, Poznan, was my next eastern European destination. I had already researched nature reserves within the Weilkopolski region. The closest was only about 15 minutes walk, even less when I found a short cut, Rusalka lake is a wonderful peaceful area at least when I was there, and I read a soap opera is filmed there occasionally. The lake is surrounded by tall trees, with the lake being 367,000 square metres, built in the 1940’s as a result of the damming of the Bogdanka River.

Immediately entering the wooded area I saw nuthatch and greater spotted woodpeckers, great, blue and long tailed tit, treecreeper, blackbird, song thrush and nightingale. The corvids were plentiful with hooded crow, jackdaw, magpie, rook and jays. There were a few red squirrels, always nice to see. The lake was quiet with only mallards and black headed gulls. I was a bit late putting on my insect repellent spray and was bitten on my forehead, part of the course for me.

I settled in my hotel just a short distance from the airport, which does have its advantages.  I discovered very soon the main road where I was staying, was on the flight path approaching the airport. The planes were so close I thought I saw the pilot waving at me.

The next day after a stroll round Lake Rusalka, I ventured to Lake Malta, which is just the most delightful place that offers so much for everyone, there is an adventure playground, artificial  ski slope, outdoor and indoor ten pin bowling. There is water sports, canoeing, a small tourist railway. The list is endless. The reason I was there, of course, was for none of that and it was pleasant to walk round the lake, with mallards, coots, moorhens, great crested grebe and cormorants spotted. The large wooded area, I spotted the usual woodland birds, and some marsh tits, the highlight.

The next day, Monday morning, I did not have the best of starts, and I am yet to fully get to grips with the Polish bus ticketing system. I found a kiosk and wanted to ask for some tickets. The hatch was about the size of a postage stamp and fit for people of about 3 foot tall. The Polish woman was 2 days short of her 90^th birthday, with no teeth and wearing clothes passed down from her great grandmother. She didn’t speak any English and in the pouring rain I asked for the bus tickets.  I did my hardest using the best sign language I could, like pointing at the bus I had just missed. I am not sure how but she gave me three 15 minute tickets, that allows you to travel for 15 minutes. As it was the rush hour, 15 minutes doesn’t get you very far. My morning was getting worse as my intention was to travel to the train station, I had got on the wrong bus. I alighted after a few stops, now further away from the train station than before.

I eventually made it to the train station for my destination at Weilkopolski National park about 15 km south of Poznan. After the first stop a class of six year olds, with teacher, filled the carriage. Poland’s answer to Dennis the menace sat next to me. The teacher, exasperated no doubt, was “ssshhhhhhing” him every 30 seconds. The park is about 78 sq km with a town called Puszczykowo in the centre, with the Warta river running through. I strolled through a small part of the park, passing the odd cyclist, jogger and snake. 

Lake Warta

Amongst the usual woodland birds, I saw middle spotted woodpecker, and crested tits in the tall pine trees. There were many martins and swallows migrating high up. I made my way back to the train station and having found the ticket office it had all the shutters down. I must have to pay on the train, I thought. No one approached me on the train, and arriving in Poznan Glowny I was preparing my defence for being ticketless, walking along the platform with the many passengers towards the station concourse. There was no Inspector and I was relieved.

Middle spotted woodpecker

I had an evening flight on my last day and my hotel kindly allowed me to leave my luggage to pick up later, to save having to carry it around. I went to my favourite haunt at Lake Rusalka. Two students were surprised when I told them I was a tourist. “Not many tourists come here”. She said. She seemed pleased when I told them the purpose of my visit. She told me what birds she had just seen and I gave the English name for them.

Later I went to the Botanical gardens. I have never seen so many jays. Fieldfares were a sign that autumn was here, lots of woodpeckers too. I spent the afternoon in Poznan and casually made my way to the hotel to collect my luggage. I still had one 15 minute bus ticket that Great Aunt Anastasia had sold me the other day. I validated my ticket and as I sat down, a Polishman starting talking to me. I told him where I was from and in broken English he asked me whether I had a ticket. Thinking he was a ticket Inspector, as he had a blue shirt, a bag and looked official I showed him.

“No”, he said, “another ticket”

My reaction was maybe the ticket wouldn’t get me to the airport in 15 minutes and I would have to purchase another. I searched in my pockets looking for some loose change. Captain Czeslaw looked at me and said, “no, want buy ticket “. He wasn’t an Inspector after all. He left after a few stops, without having bought a ticket from anyone else. I am not the only one it seems.

My drama was not yet over, as I was searched and my bags emptied at customs. Memories of Lublin again, but this time no smiles.

My lesson from this break was, learn to speak Polish.