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Friday, May 18, 2018

Gdansk and Elblag, fantastic birding


Whinchat
I haven't updated my blog lately but thought that as my trip to Northern Poland was exceptional, I would share it. I flew to Gdansk Airport and something I have got used to is the time of arrival, about 1am. I checked into the hotel, which is within walking distance from the airport. This suits me because there is some good birding spots close by. Having got my head down by 2 am, I was up again by 5 am. As usual it doesn't disappoint, although because Gdansk has expanded in recent years, areas where I used to see corn buntings is now car parks.

First bird I saw was a whinchat singing on a wire, then corn bunting. The whole area was alive with birdsong, with skylarks, whitethroat and yellowhammer. A yellow wagtail was close by and then the wonderful sound of common cranes, about 20 distant in the field.

I went to Gdansk city centre to catch my coach to Elblag, about 60 km away. Along the way there were white storks and Marsh harriers. Elblag is a small tourist town, but not much birding in the town centre. The one thing I did note was the vast numbers of house sparrows. They were everywhere.


Red-breasted flycatcher

The next morning, after a great breakfast, I went to Bazantarnia forest, about 45 min walk away. The weather was hot. On the way were common redstarts, lesser whitethroat, serin and house and tree sparrows. A red-backed shrike was on a typical perch as I walked out of the town. As I entered the forest I heard the lovely song of the red-breasted flycatcher. It took me a few minutes to locate it, not helped by some workmen working with tractors. I managed a couple of pictures, no red breast on this one. Shortly after I spotted another and this one had the red breast. I was fortunate to get a photograph. I did notice the large number of common warblers, chiffchaff, blackcap and willow warblers. Also Wood warblers were abundant. A small stream ran through the forest which I walked along, and a grey wagtail flew up, colours looking great in the sun. Feeling tired now I made my way back to the hotel and then evening meal in the town.

The next morning I went in the opposite direction intending to head for a lake, south of Elblag. The weather was hot again and sun screen and anti mosquito spray were added in equal measure. Following my GPS I headed over a motorway and into farm land and single track roads. The trees were full of birds and the loud song of the thrush nightingale was heard and was well hidden, I heard another and had a couple of glimpses and then another was perched in a tree and managed some photographs. As I walked along there were sedge warblers, then a grasshopper warbler, which I was lucky to locate. A cuckoo sounded and I found a pair in a tree. Golden orioles were singing and after a flyover, I spotted one up in the canopy but showing enough of itself for a photo.


Thrush Nightingale
After a while I noticed my GPS had lost the signal but as there were birds in abundance, I abandoned the lake plan and stayed where I was. Later a river warbler was seen and a marsh warbler. There was a large reed bed and I could hear reed, great reed and savi's warblers but couldn't see any. Two white-tailed eagles soared just above me, and a marsh Harrier close by. Walking along one of the unnamed roads I heard a common rosefinch and soon found one of the scruffiest birds you could imagine, but its song is fabulous. I have invented a word that seems to fit its song: "invertibule. It works for me anyway. Four white winged black terns flew close by, but too quick to get a picture. A green woodpecker flew as I headed back. Over 50 species. As I arrived back at the hotel, some dark clouds had appeared and rumbles of thunder in the distance. Later some rain.

The next morning, I didn't venture too far, as my coach back to Gdansk was just after midday. I just went to a local park and although it was pleasant, I didn't see anything outstanding. I was lucky with my timings to get to Sobieszewska, an island, east of Gdansk. I went to a walk in Ptasi raj, a place I have visited a number of times. I was greeted as usual by a barking dog that belongs to the owners of a cafe at the start of the reserve. Although I was there for only a couple of hours I saw some great birds, like icterine warbler, golden oriole, lesser spotted woodpecker, Wood warbler, great reed warbler, spotted flycatcher, hawfinch and red-backed shrike.


Spotted flycatcher

I made an early start next morning at 5.00 am and went back to Ptasi Raj, walking up to the reserve I saw redstart and black redstart, 2 cranes flying over, lesser whitethroat, serin and tree and house sparrows. After being barked at again I made my way along a narrow path, with reed beds either side, I saw red-backed shrike, reed warblers, reed buntings, a white-tailed eagle with a fish being mobbed by a-black headed gull, marsh harrier, bearded tits, goosanders and many mute swans on the "dead Vistula".

Later I went into the forest and battled with the insects, all after my blood. Whilst I have a good insect repellant I still had a few mosquito bites. There were many wood warblers singing and lots of phylloscs. I heard an icterine warbler, went in search of it off the path and a lesser spotted woodpecker appeared. I then heard a cuckoo and saw it fly a couple of times, golden orioles were singing and I saw them in the canopy. Later I saw an icterine warbler and tried for a photograph, whilst trying a lesser spotted woodpecker appeared again and my attention was diverted. Then a golden oriole was above me and a cuckoo just to the left, and a wood warbler in front. My camera was switching every which way, and the lesser spotted woodpecker won.


Wood warbler

I headed towards the
baltic sea, and a great reed warbler showed, although distant. There was not much to view on the sea other than cormorants, gulls and mute swans. There was a sign which I managed to translate saying "No entry" because of nesting ringed plover, although some Polish sunseekers were ignoring the signs and carried on regardless. I headed back into the forest and more icterine warblers, although no success for a photograph. A grey headed woodpecker appeared high up and then two flew past. I headed back, pleased with the birds I had seen.


Cuckoo

The next day I went to the other end of the island and I had an early start. This was probably the best day. The reserve is called "Mewla Lache" and is fantastic all year round. I had just entered the reserve, which runs alongside the wide vistula river. The first thing I saw was a beaver swimming away from me. I hadn't taken the camera out of the bag. Walking up a bird flew up and landed on a branch in front of me, a common rosefinch in breeding plumage, I managed a few pictures before it flew. An odd sounding cuckoo was perched in a tree above me and seemed oblivious to my presence. There were a few goosander nest boxes in the trees along the bank, and a few goosanders were on the river. Further up there is a raised platform overlooking some reedbeds and a small pond, a great reed warbler was singing. Yellowhammers were singing and a red-backed shrike was about. Then the delightful sound of terns, sandwich, common and little. The little terns were flying above my head across the river.


Common rosefinch

I made my way to a large metal tower where you can view the baltic and the vistula and beaches. There were six shelduck , 10 dunlin and two grey plover. Also about 300 seals on some sand banks quite distant. I hoped for some little tern photographs but they were too high. Then a beaver appeared, and a Polish birder at the tower thought it was ill. It did seem odd to be out in the sun at midday. A short eared owl then flew up in front of us.


I had a wander in the dunes and could hear wood lark but failed to pick them up. More yellowhammer and rosefinches were singing. I made my way back, pleased with what I had seen.


The next day I was heading home but still had about 3 hours to get some birding done in the morning. I went to Ptasi Raj and saw a pair of red-backed shrikes, bearded tits over the vast reedbeds. A had brief views of a garden warbler, singing continuously. Then a wheatear popped up on the path. I headed back into the forest and I managed a photograph of an icterine warbler, albeit a not very good one. Then I heard a call of a black woodpecker and it flew across me, high up. I was ending on a high.


Female red-backed shrike
Waiting at the bus stop, three common cranes were circling over the dead vistula and a common tern was fishing. Then, high up, two honey buzzards flew over. I had 108 species in the week, which I was pleased with considering my lack of transport. I made my way to the airport, and everything had run smoothly, which hasn't always been the case in my Polish travels....