Don't panic and the case of the missing fruit

My second trip to Berlin this year, took me to Spandau, the north west region of the city. My flight from Liverpool was full, and was on time and knowing where I was going certainly helps as I was away from the airport and on the S9 train within minutes. I had first called at the Tourist Information desk to buy a Berlin Welcome Card, that allows me to travel anywhere in Inner and outer Berlin for the five days I was there. I arrived at Rathaus Spandau and it was only a ten minute walk from the U Bahn or 3 stops on the 130 bus to my hotel. Berlin has wonderful street and place names, I was staying in Steegefelder Strausse, and my train interchange was Jungfernheide.

My hotel was comfortable, but I was wondering how I was going to manage with the receptionist, who knew as much English as I know German. I managed to get the key to my room and looked through my German phrase book to get me through the week.

My first morning I started with Spandauer Forst, with a 9 stop bus journey on the M45 bus to Johannesstift. I took only a few steps into the Forest and there was a mass of bird calling, most notably nuthatch. In the huge forested area I encountered three species of woodpecker, great, middle and lesser spotted. Other delights were hawfinch, bullfinch, crossbill and siskin, crested and marsh tit. I saw both common treecreeper and short toed treecreeper, as well as the more common species like blue tit, great tit and the delightful white headed long tailed tit.  It is quite easy to lose yourself in the many paths, although it was slow going as there were constant tap, tap, tapping from the branches. Hoping I might see a black woodpecker I mostly saw great spotted and it wasn’t always easy spotting them. I was walking down one path and suddenly saw a sound of wild boar trotting towards me, I tried to keep calm, thought of Corporal Jones and looked around for a tree to climb. Fortunately the male boar stopped after seeing me and his band followed suit. After staring at each other for a few seconds he turned right and off down another path, followed by his piglets. I was rather fortunate as there weren’t any trees that looked climbable.

This wild boar was behind a fence

I came across a small lake called Laßzinssee but not too much bird life apart from Mallards and Coots, viewed from a raised platform. I followed the path called Berliner Mauer Weg, the Berlin Wall Trail, which I strolled along for a while, keeping a watchful eye for wild pigs. I heard some calling and couldn’t make out what it was before looking up I saw about 100 migrating cranes, flying high above the tallest pylons I have ever seen. I made my way back to the bus terminus, after a full day in the forest.

My next day I went to Flughafensee, next to Tegel Airport which is Berlin’s main airport, with planes taking off every 2 minutes. It was quite a large lake but not much on show apart from mallards, cormorants and the odd heron. I did manage to see a green woodpecker in the wooded area.  I walked up to the U Bahn and went two stops to Tegel, where Berlin’s second biggest lake is. Tegel See is a wonderful place which during the summer must be just teeming with visitors. Alongside the lake is Tegel Forst, where I saw the usual woodland birds I saw the day before. On the lake were hundreds of coots and mallards, with little grebe, great crested grebe. Also many diving ducks, tufted ducks and pochards mainly but small numbers of goldeneye too. Nearer to the town were mute swans and most of the Canada geese I saw were ringed.

Mute swan on Tegel See

I can’t ever remember eating an apple before for breakfast, but I did on Thursday. I recall from the Peckers and Lizsters tour that the lunch was made up from the breakfast buffet. I couldn’t ask the waitress if this was allowed because she couldn’t speak any English. I decided to raid the fruit bowl instead rather than make up sandwiches. I took a banana and apple and put the banana  in the pocket of my jumper whilst the waitress wasn’t looking. I tried to do the same with the apple but realised hawkeyed Heidi had spotted me  and I then modified the action to start eating it instead. Maybe because there were no banana skins or apple cores on my empty breakfast plate previous days, she had cottoned on to what I was doing.

Later, minus an apple, I wanted to try Krumme Lanke again, after visiting the area earlier in the year, and I started out earlier. I ended up arriving late after missing my stop at Fehrberliner Platz, thinking I should travel to Hermannplatz.  I was just taken in by the Berlin rush hour because every available space was taken on the train, sitting and standing. The birds around Krumme lanke, with a wooded area surrounding  the lake were numerous. In February I saw the black woodpecker, but not so lucky on this occasion. Lots of great spotted and the odd middle spotted. On the lake were mandarins, mallards, pochards, tufted ducks and cormorants, also great crested grebe in winter plumage. Another lake about twice the size, Schlachtensee, was close by and it took about two hours to walk round. It was getting dark as I made my way back to the U bahn, travelling through my favourite Onkle Toms Hutte station. The English translation is Uncle Tom’s Cabins. A local landlord built cabins for his guests to shelter from the rain in his beer garden in the 19^th century. They don’t have station names that that where I live.

The picturesque Schlachtensee

My last day, with the fruit bowl having disappeared at breakfast, I checked out of my Hotel and travelled on the S bahn to Tiergarten close to the Brandenburg gates. The park is huge in the centre of Berlin, with a number of small ponds with mallards and mandarin ducks resident. Last time I was fortunate to see a goshawk and I was hoping I would be lucky again as I only had about 2 hours to find them. I was in the park about 30 seconds and a huge female goshawk flew close by and perched on a branch, which had me scrambling for my bins. A couple of cyclists also stopped to take a look. A great view and then it flew out of sight. Sitting on a bench in the park, I saw bird behaviour that was just great. There seemed to be a small patch that many birds were attracted to. The pecking order seemed to be blackbird, nuthatch, tree sparrow, great tit and blue tit. The many nuthatches seemed to take it out on the great tits. I later encountered a number of finches, including hawfinch, greenfinch, chaffinch, goldfinch and siskin.

I made my way to Schoenefeld Airport, after a fabulous few days, everything was on time and even the budget airline were following the German example of efficiency. My bus home was running 20 minutes late, a reminder I was back in Britain.

Trip to Isle of Man

Instead of flying east from Liverpool, I went north west, to the Isle of Man. At Liverpool John Lennon airport, there was delay announcement after delay announcement, apology after apology because of the French air traffic controllers strike. I was able to stroll straight through, and just a short 25 minute flight, I was at Ronaldsway before I was able to fasten my seat belt.

I took the bus to Douglas, and wanted to get rid of my luggage and walk the promenade and take in the Irish sea air. I was staying on the fifth floor of a four storey building and was in the fourth chimney pot on the right, my neighbour answered to the name of Jack. My alarm call at dawn was a herring gull calling in gull language “hello world”.

My breakfast was fruit juice, a full English, cereal, toast and tea or coffee, that set me up for the day. I usually like an early breakfast but had to start at 8 am. I took a bus to Port Erin and saw immediately a pair of Eiders in the bay. Although the day was sunny, there was quite a wind blowing. I walked to Port St Mary, taking a detour to the Calf of Man. Here I saw gannets, shags, more eiders, and looked up to see 8 whooper swans, flying towards Martin Mere.

There were lots of seals resting on the rocks. I called in at the Sound café and was fortunate to call in when I did as a coach load arrived shortly after. House martins and swallows were still here, and I was delighted to see stonechats, one of my favourite birds, also rock pipits and pied wags. I continued onto Port St Mary, passing through Cregneash, then onto Castletown, seeing wigeon and teal on the shore line, then that higher pitched call “Jack”, Choughs were performing their acrobatics.

I went to Port Erin the following day and went right towards Peel, I set off hoping to make my way along the coast towards Dalby and then Peel, my book said 16 miles. I made it three years ago. I saw stonechats again, meadow and rock pipits, ravens and choughs, rooks and jackdaws.

I made my way from  Milner’s Tower and down into a valley and then made my way up again on the other side and then I noticed my camera lens cap was missing. My first reaction was to turn back and tried to retrace my steps. Half way down I decided was it worth it? It is only a lens cap, I can get another, so I made my way back up again. Then, a change of mind, I decided to find it, thinking I might not be able to get another cap that fits. It was a needle in a haystack job. I found it right at the bottom of the valley and was relieved. Then I thought I would never make it to Peel, and decided to take a different route back to Port Erin. I saw a footpath through some woods and walked through the tightly packed conifers seeing tit flocks, robins, wrens and goldcrest. The path seemed to fizzle out and I could see the path I had come down towards the valley. The problem I faced was either making my way through about fifty yards of bramble to the path or going back along the route I had just come along. I chose the fifty yards to the path on the steep hill. With hindsight that wasn’t the best option. It is likely that no one had taken that route since Sweyn Forkbeard in 950 AD.  I had cuts on my arms and legs. I was hoping no one would spot me struggling to make my way through the thick bramble. I don't think they did.

I made it back to the path. Walking back up the hill was a struggle and it was now quite warm and my coat had to come off. Eventually I found my way back to Port Erin. I found a park bench for a rest and closed my eyes for five minutes. I woke up, looked down and my lens cap was missing.

The next day, after another hearty breakfast, I stated my next destination to my landlady, who always wore a blue hairnet. Laxey I told her, and I set off passing a post box and posted my application form for the Krypton Factor, after yesterday’s exploits.

I was dropped off by the Laxey Wheel, and made my way along the coastal path. I took detours to two private nature reserves, making sure this time to keep to the main paths. Choughs, jackdaws and hooded crows were showing well along the coast along with many herring gulls. In the second nature reserve I saw teal, tufted duck, mallards, coot and little grebe.

It was warm again and the detours I took made the distance about 14 miles, so was fairly tired when I made it to Onchan Hill. Then down to Douglas, where I saw turnstone, curlew, oystercatcher and redshank on the beach. There were herring gulls, great black backed and black headed gulls, as well as many rock pipits and pied wagtails feeding on the seaweed.

Monday, saw me going in the same direction, but past Laxey through to Ramsey. I didn’t want to walk as much and walked at a sedate pace. On the front I saw Canada geese, mute swan and cormorants in amongst all the boats. Walking along the beach I saw turnstone, ringed plover, oystercatchers and curlew. Later walking along the north shore I saw a peregrine falcon causing havoc amongst the oystercatchers. It was the only raptor I saw. I stumbled across Ballure reservoir run by the Manx Water Authority and although looked a great place for birding I didn’t see any birds on the lake. The notice board did suggest that wildfowl do over winter there, they just hadn’t arrived yet. I walked around a pleasant wooded area and saw a large tit flock, goldfinch, siskin and goldcrest. It was getting on and made the long bus journey to Douglas.

My last day I didn’t want to spend too far away from Douglas and went to Summerhill Glen, on the way to Onchan, where I used to stay in the early seventies in the summer holidays with my Aunty. It was again a lovely warm day and I was fortunate that hairnet Harriet allowed me to keep the luggage at the hotel after I had checked out. I later went on the promenade and was delighted to see two red throated divers in the harbour. One was being harassed by a herring gull whenever it resurfaced.

I collected my luggage and bussed it to Ronaldsway for my 5 pm flight. As I entered the airport I was thinking how things had run smoothly. I looked at the tv monitor to check my flight, and was surprised to see a message I hadn’t seen before: “bag drop suspended”. Not sure what that meant I sat waiting for it to change. Then an announcement, the entire network for my airline was down and no check- ins for taking place until it was fixed. Another flight to Gatwick had been delayed for 2 hours.

I was glad when I heard that the check in was reassuming and could all Liverpool passengers make their way to leave their luggage. I presented my boarding pass and passport to the assistant, she looked at the computer and said my name wasn’t on the list. I was surprised as I had just given her the boarding pass. She called her supervisor and then printed off a new boarding pass. I made my way to the departure lounge and then went to go through Customs. I was just about to hand my pass over when I saw that Loopy Linda had given me a pass for London Gatwick. I quickly made my way back to the check in desk and she had the correct pass waiting for me. I was in a bit of a panic as the flight was due to depart in 20 minutes. No problems getting through Customs but whilst I was boarding the plane I had a horrible thought. Where was my luggage going to end up, Gatwick or Liverpool? I had an uncomfortable flight wondering what would become of them.

I nervously waiting at the baggage reclaim area, and breathed a sigh of relief when my case came out of the conveyor belt. Out of interest I looked at the stickers on the case and saw one for Liverpool and one for Gatwick. I had somehow got away with it.

I had an enjoyable few days in the Isle of Man despite changing boarding passes and missing lens caps with about 70 species of birds seen. If I make it over there again I might take the Isle of Man Steam packet ferry.

Rob

Hungary trip

Fourteen of us went on a memorable Hungarian trip to Bukk Hills. This was the Peckers and Liszters second trip to Hungary, with 6 of us having made the trip in spring last year. For many of us, there were plenty of birds we have never seen before in store, including eight species of woodpecker, white tailed and imperial eagles, and long eared owls. Some lovely treats later when the weather improved with Queen of Spain Fritillary, Clouded yellow and Eastern bath white butterflies. Three things that come to mind about our trip. Lowra, shelduck and Manu, more about them later.

We all arrived at the Rocket just before noon for a mini bus ride to Manchester airport. The flight arrived on time, and we were met at the airport by Ged, author, tour guide, expert on woodpeckers and wearer of dodgy Hungarian hats and Atilla, the driver. A two hour drive to the Nomad hotel in a small village called Noszvaj. Ged has been living many years in Hungary and his pronunciation has been influenced by speaking Hungarian, because Laura became “ Low” (sounds like Pow) ra.

The anticipation was building, when we saw the hotel. We had ten minutes to grab a key for our rooms, a quick wash and the meal was ready for us, the first of many excellent dishes. We were given the itinerary from Ged. He likes to keep things simple and we were told, seven, eight and nine to remember for the next morning, seven for the pre breakfast walk, eight for breakfast, and nine for the mini bus ride.  We were introduced to the tour mascot: Manu, that was not appreciated by everyone, but adored by the Everton contingent of the group.

The next morning, most complained about not having slept very well, but we all made the pre breakfast walk at 7. Whilst waiting for the walk to start, we saw great spotted woodpecker, song thrush, blackbird, jay and great tit. In the road leading to the park we saw black redstart, tree sparrow, marsh tit and nuthatch. In the boating lake there were four mallards that greeted us each morning.

Within the first hour, surrounded by wooded hills we had spotted some fantastic birds, including for most a “lifer” grey headed woodpecker, also great spotted woodpeckers. Ravens were soaring high, as well as buzzards and sparrowhawks. Also flying were redwing and white wagtails. We saw chiffchaffs and willow warblers flitting about in the branches.  It was amusing to compare the long tailed tits from those that we see in the UK with their white heads. Whilst on our way back some were fortunate to see a black woodpecker, flying away from us. The bird appeared to wake up at 7.45 am.

After a good breakfast, we made our own sandwiches and rolls for a packed lunch for later. The highlight being the Eggy bread, and the owner was christened by Rhodie as the eggy bread lady.

The tour really started at 9am when we set off for the Bukk Hills in the mini bus. We arrived at Hor Valley, the weather was getting colder and a bit windy, autumn was here. Buzzards were soaring, linnets, goldfinch and chaffinches were seen, everyone with their binoculars at the ready, not wanting to miss out on our target birds. Neil volunteered, or was he deliberately chosen?, to search for a tawny owl. With a stick he tried to flush one out from a hole in a tree, with Ged calling to “keep your face away from the hole”.

He didn’t manage to flush the owl, the hole was empty. Neil had trouble getting back to the path. We were searching now for the white backed woodpecker. It was proving elusive, despite Ged’s calls to attract them. There was evidence of them, and Ged pointed out the signs on the hornbeam trees, where the white backed feed on the wood-boring beetle larvae. 

Along the way we saw treecreeper, nuthatch and robins, middle and great spotted woodpeckers were also seen. A few managed to get a glimpse of some crossbills, Fantastic views, but still no white backed. Some were beginning to wonder whether we would see one at all, then when all appeared to be lost Ged heard the call, and Neil spotted the white backed. As it turned out the bird was voted the bird of the tour and was a “lifer” for most of us.

 It flew from tree to tree and then landed allowing great views and those who were alert were able to get a photo of the wonderful bird. On our way back to the mini bus we managed to see the Lesser spotted too. We were all relieved and feeling pleased with ourselves, we hadn’t doubted for a minute that the bird would show.

On our way back to the hotel we stopped at Cserepfalu, in search of the Syrian woodpecker, but we couldn’t find one. We also stopped at the Bogacs Reservoir and we saw mallards, small numbers of teal, heron and a few white wagtail. A debate started and continued about whether Tomo had seen a shelduck on the water. It gave rise to the creation of a new tour operator: Shelduck Tours.

We arrived back at the hotel and had an excellent meal with duck on the menu, apart from the Veggies. We wondered if there might be a duck less on the boating lake in Noszvaj. A check list of the birds spotted and everything else, including mammals, butterflies, insects and amphibians. 

Curiously shelduck was missing from the “official” list. We all dressed for the occasion and bright green, or any colour that stood out in honour of Arnie’s trainers. Sadly Arnie had changed the colour of his footwear at the last minute to the colour of royal blue. After many beers, palinkas and bacardi and (not very much coke) we headed back to our rooms, hoping that we hadn’t drank too much for the 7 o’clock walk next morning.

Most made the early call, with only a couple late, and they soon caught up. The wind was stronger and the temperature had dropped over night. It was a lot quieter than the day before and no grey headed woodpecker. The three drake and one female mallards were there to greet us and they weren’t caught for last night’s evening meal.

After another hearty breakfast and making up the packed lunches for later we set off on time, passing through Szentistvan, Tiszababolna and Poroszlo. In Szentistvan, we saw a roost of eight long eared owls. We had fabulous views and surprising for most that we were able to get so close, compared to viewing them in the UK. Tomo spotted a great grey shrike on a post, as we were driving, we managed to get some great shots. Later, we walked across a field and we had about an hour of a wonderful raptor experience. We saw hen harrier, buzzard, marsh harrier, imperial eagle, white tailed eagle, sparrowhawk and kestrel. Also we saw many swallows, skylark and crested lark, linnet and some lucky to spot a red throated pipit. Also spotted were Brown hares zigzagging across the fields.

In Tiszababolna we had a further treat when we saw Common crane (about 50), pygmy cormorant and Tyno was reminded every time a bird was flying by Ged, reference to us missing out on this small cormorant on the peckers and Liszters tour last year. We saw white tailed eagle, magnificently flying high. From a tower hide we saw spotted redshank, ruff and dunlin. In the fields walking back great white egrets, curlew and lapwing were seen. We saw common spadefoot toad and tree frog, and in the distance roe deer and a wily fox.

Later at lake Tisza, approaching our platform by the sluice gate, we flushed a purple heron. With our telescopes we saw little and great crested grebes, mallards, shovelers, teal and four ferruginous ducks in flight. In the distance we saw White tailed eagles, imperial eagles and marsh harriers. We were just packing up our telescopes when Tyno stayed behind for a short spell and we were grateful, as a little crake showed from the reeds. The nervous bird then was disturbed by a coot and didn’t make another appearance.  

The highlight of the day were two stops to see 20 roosting long eared owls, that had everyone out of the mini bus with their cameras, often risking crossing the road with plenty of traffic to get a better view.

We had had a great day with over 60 species of bird seen. We made our way back to the hotel and had another excellent meal, followed by our check list and the beer continued to flow. Despite a cold day, we had all thawed out.

The next, our last full day in Hungary, was a case of catching up on what birds that had been missed. The weather had improved, the wind had dropped, and the sun was shining. The seven o’clock start was notable for the green woodpecker, as well as the great and middle spotted woodpeckers.

Making our way at 9 am prompt we started at Hor Valley and were rewarded with some great bird including hawfinch, which had eluded us in previous days, linnet, yellowhammer, goldfinch and chaffinch. We saw plenty of buzzards and ravens flying high and jays flying from tree to tree. As the weather was warmer we saw lots of butterflies, including Queen of Spain Fritillary.

  

Carol took an excellent photograph of a Swallowtail caterpillar.

We stopped in two villages in search for the, so far, missing Syrian woodpecker. The first village was unsuccessful. The second after a refreshment break, whilst Anne and Lowra were showing off their table tennis skills, a Syrian was spotted and was proving to be difficult to get good views, but eventually, thanks to Neil again, we had great sightings, and we also had the local villagers out wondering who had invaded their peaceful day. Neil, had set the wheels in motion for his Shelduck tours venture, he could rival Ged in spotting the important birds.

The next stop at Bogacs Reservoir a surprise was in store for us, four black storks. We saw the magnificent birds in flight and in the water feeding. Also seen were grey plover, ruff, dunlin, pintail, teal and mallards. Butterflies were plentiful with Clouded Yellow, Small White, Red Admiral & Comma . Here, we saw a murmuration of starlings with a sparrowhawk disturbing them.

A wonderful beef goulash meal was awaiting us for our final meal, apart from the two vegetarians, who no doubt had an equally tasty meal. Second helpings were given to those who wanted more. Happy birthday wishes were sung, ever so slightly out of tune, to Atilla’s partner. More practice needed I think.

Everyone was getting ready for the evening when Arnie received a ransom note, written in Hungarian, Manu had been kidnapped and to ensure his safe return, Arnie was instructed to pay for the beer all night. Arnie was in a state of shock, how dare someone remove his beloved Manu and demand such things. He took it out on a startled Phil, and using an instrument usually reserved for slicing salami, Phil turned a whiter shade of pale, and swore his innocence. Arnie, taking great care, placed the knife in his trousers and took an unusual walk back to the kitchen to ensure the safe return. It was noticed nobody ate any salami in their sandwiches the next day.

A great debate had started, accusations and pleads of innocence were thrown from both sides. Then, suddenly the mystery had been solved, Barbara’s brother came into the room, with Manu. The safe return was ensured, without any ransom being paid. Arnie,  most relieved, slept soundly that night with half an eye open watching out for Manu on his bedside table.

The next morning, Friday and our last day, was a lovely morning and all the usual suspects were present in the park, with great, middle and lesser woodpeckers showing well. The four mallards were fed by Lowra, we would all miss them.

We set off on time again at 9 am getting much of our driving out of the way early, today we were in search of the great bustards. Making our way to Kiskunsag, Ged spotted a pair of black woodpeckers and we hung around for them to make a reappearance.

We set off again and called into a wooded area nearer to our destination  but no black woodpecker. We then tried for the bustards, and over lunch, a saker falcon was spotted in the distance, wonderful views. We thought we saw the bustards in the distance but it was a false alarm, just hooded crows.  Here we saw Eastern bath white and clouded yellow  butterflies.

Then whilst driving Ged called for Atilla to stop, he had spotted the great bustards, 8 of them, that later increased to 13. Then when watching them Rob spotted a goshawk that was flying low right in front of us. Another excellent day was now drawing to a close and when we stopped at a service station to say our goodbyes to Ged and Atilla before the airport, there was still time to see a distant Imperial eagle perched on a pylon, crested larks were in the car park, in amongst the Hungarian truckers.

Neil was supposed to be first to leave, for his flight to Barcelona, but as it turned out he left after us after the flight was delayed. We made it back to Manchester in one piece and everyone was rather tired after being travelling for most of the day. Two became one when we heard one of our coaches had been stolen, but that wasn’t going to spoil our holiday.

A big thank you to Ged, Chris, Laura and Tomo for the way the trip was organised, to Atilla for his excellent driving and patience. For everyone for sharing their expert knowledge , especially Carol and Rob and not forgetting the soil specialist in the group; Peaty. To Arnie, Neil, Rhodie, and Phil for keeping us entertained with their wit. Thanks also to everyone who shared their photographs. Everyone contributed to this holiday and it won’t be forgotten for some time.

Shelduck tours will be putting out flyers for the next tour, watch this space….

Rob

Trip to Poznan

My second trip to Poland this year, Poznan, was my next eastern European destination. I had already researched nature reserves within the Weilkopolski region. The closest was only about 15 minutes walk, even less when I found a short cut, Rusalka lake is a wonderful peaceful area at least when I was there, and I read a soap opera is filmed there occasionally. The lake is surrounded by tall trees, with the lake being 367,000 square metres, built in the 1940’s as a result of the damming of the Bogdanka River.

Immediately entering the wooded area I saw nuthatch and greater spotted woodpeckers, great, blue and long tailed tit, treecreeper, blackbird, song thrush and nightingale. The corvids were plentiful with hooded crow, jackdaw, magpie, rook and jays. There were a few red squirrels, always nice to see. The lake was quiet with only mallards and black headed gulls. I was a bit late putting on my insect repellent spray and was bitten on my forehead, part of the course for me.

I settled in my hotel just a short distance from the airport, which does have its advantages.  I discovered very soon the main road where I was staying, was on the flight path approaching the airport. The planes were so close I thought I saw the pilot waving at me.

The next day after a stroll round Lake Rusalka, I ventured to Lake Malta, which is just the most delightful place that offers so much for everyone, there is an adventure playground, artificial  ski slope, outdoor and indoor ten pin bowling. There is water sports, canoeing, a small tourist railway. The list is endless. The reason I was there, of course, was for none of that and it was pleasant to walk round the lake, with mallards, coots, moorhens, great crested grebe and cormorants spotted. The large wooded area, I spotted the usual woodland birds, and some marsh tits, the highlight.

The next day, Monday morning, I did not have the best of starts, and I am yet to fully get to grips with the Polish bus ticketing system. I found a kiosk and wanted to ask for some tickets. The hatch was about the size of a postage stamp and fit for people of about 3 foot tall. The Polish woman was 2 days short of her 90^th birthday, with no teeth and wearing clothes passed down from her great grandmother. She didn’t speak any English and in the pouring rain I asked for the bus tickets.  I did my hardest using the best sign language I could, like pointing at the bus I had just missed. I am not sure how but she gave me three 15 minute tickets, that allows you to travel for 15 minutes. As it was the rush hour, 15 minutes doesn’t get you very far. My morning was getting worse as my intention was to travel to the train station, I had got on the wrong bus. I alighted after a few stops, now further away from the train station than before.

I eventually made it to the train station for my destination at Weilkopolski National park about 15 km south of Poznan. After the first stop a class of six year olds, with teacher, filled the carriage. Poland’s answer to Dennis the menace sat next to me. The teacher, exasperated no doubt, was “ssshhhhhhing” him every 30 seconds. The park is about 78 sq km with a town called Puszczykowo in the centre, with the Warta river running through. I strolled through a small part of the park, passing the odd cyclist, jogger and snake. 

Lake Warta

Amongst the usual woodland birds, I saw middle spotted woodpecker, and crested tits in the tall pine trees. There were many martins and swallows migrating high up. I made my way back to the train station and having found the ticket office it had all the shutters down. I must have to pay on the train, I thought. No one approached me on the train, and arriving in Poznan Glowny I was preparing my defence for being ticketless, walking along the platform with the many passengers towards the station concourse. There was no Inspector and I was relieved.

Middle spotted woodpecker

I had an evening flight on my last day and my hotel kindly allowed me to leave my luggage to pick up later, to save having to carry it around. I went to my favourite haunt at Lake Rusalka. Two students were surprised when I told them I was a tourist. “Not many tourists come here”. She said. She seemed pleased when I told them the purpose of my visit. She told me what birds she had just seen and I gave the English name for them.

Later I went to the Botanical gardens. I have never seen so many jays. Fieldfares were a sign that autumn was here, lots of woodpeckers too. I spent the afternoon in Poznan and casually made my way to the hotel to collect my luggage. I still had one 15 minute bus ticket that Great Aunt Anastasia had sold me the other day. I validated my ticket and as I sat down, a Polishman starting talking to me. I told him where I was from and in broken English he asked me whether I had a ticket. Thinking he was a ticket Inspector, as he had a blue shirt, a bag and looked official I showed him.

“No”, he said, “another ticket”

My reaction was maybe the ticket wouldn’t get me to the airport in 15 minutes and I would have to purchase another. I searched in my pockets looking for some loose change. Captain Czeslaw looked at me and said, “no, want buy ticket “. He wasn’t an Inspector after all. He left after a few stops, without having bought a ticket from anyone else. I am not the only one it seems.

My drama was not yet over, as I was searched and my bags emptied at customs. Memories of Lublin again, but this time no smiles.

My lesson from this break was, learn to speak Polish.

Bratislava

The suburbs of Bratislava are nice green leafy areas, and plenty of forest parks. For some it is best avoiding the graffiti laden stag/hen party districts of the city. The legacy from the Soviet days, much in evidence, is crumbling concrete and tenement blocks and a curious UFO style structure above the Nový most (New bridge) over the River Danube. The public transport system is efficient and only costs buttons. Some of the buses and trams are a little old though.

Having experienced Hungary in May last year I went prepared for the insects and sun with my special edition super roll-on tropical insect repellent and factor 50 sun protection cream and sun hat, I wasn’t taking any chances. Having finished my cold breakfast, thinking when is the main course arriving, then forgetting I was in continental breakfast country, I walked towards the UFO bridge and heard and saw lots of swift screaming above and walking the bridge lots of house martins were nesting underneath. It was nice to be looking down on them.

I started at Sad Janka Kráľa named after a Slovak poet. It is also the oldest public park in Europe and is alongside the River Danube. Here I saw nuthatch, blackcap, blackbird, great and blue tit, chaffinch, goldfinch, greenfinch and serin. There were green woodpeckers, great spotted woodpeckers and spotted flycatchers. Interestingly there were carrion crows and hooded crows in the same vicinity, jackdaws and jays too. I arrived there quite early and saw a hare and red squirrels. The best sighting was a red backed shrike on the edge of the park.

Red-backed shrike

Later I walked along the bank of the Danube and didn’t see many birds on the river, with the odd cormorant flying low and black headed gulls and a few yellow legged gulls. In the wooded area I heard first then saw a nightingale, a lovely sound. Also high up in the canopy I saw golden orioles, their song once heard never forgotten. Later there were also some common terns flying over the river. Lots of chaffinches, chiffchaffs, blackbirds, etc.

The second day I tried Horsky Park, about 6 km outside the city. It is just a wonderful park and covering 22 hectares, and just big enough to walk peacefully listening to the birdsong of the usual suspects. I came across wood warblers, a collared flycatcher and golden orioles, as well as the more common song birds.

The third day, Sunday, I tried Bratislava Forest park and so did the population of Bratislava because it was heaving. Runners, cyclists, trekkers, dog walkers, day trippers, barbecue cookers and a bird watcher were trying to make a day of it.  It covers an area of 27.3 km² and 96% is forested and much on a hill.  I went into the quieter tightly packed forest area and didn’t pass many others, and the incline seemed never ending. I disturbed some red deer whilst trying a path that led to nowhere. The temperature was 30+ and I, along with four and twenty blackbirds were being baked. The blackbirds had more than the heat to contend with as goshawks were flying high, in the odd clearing making viewing possible. I arrived at the top and came across the aptly named Altitude restaurant, with a 200m high tower that can be seen from the whole of Bratislava. I came across a middle spotted woodpecker toing and froing from its nest.

Some signs in English

The last day I went left of the new bridge towards Hungary, and after the heavy overnight thunderstorm I had to sidestep lots of puddles. A collared flycatcher was nesting and singing high up looking onto the Danube. What a delightful song they have.  Lots of singing blackcaps and chaffinches, martins and swallows catching insects. I walked quite a distance knowing I couldn’t get lost if I carried on close to the river. I then heard a golden oriole, then a few and saw lots of them flying in between trees, even on the lower branches. They are a wonderful sight. I then flushed a nightingale and the unmistakable brown colouring of the wing, I heard at least 10 singing. I then had a wonderful musical interlude. All at the same time I heard golden oriole, nightingale, blackcap, song thrush and icterine warbler singing. It was la crème de la crème, Sunday night at the London Palladium, front row seats at Carnegie Hall to see Renee and Renato.

Looking onto the Danube

I had an early flight next morning and after another cold breakfast and a lukewarm cappuccino, or was it a latte?  I made my way to the airport and just about managed to squeeze on the 61 bus during another early morning Slovakian rush hour. I was so taken in with the proceedings I forgot to mark my bus ticket in the machine. I was thankful an inspector didn't get on and tell me in a foreign language I owed a 40 euro fine.

Rob

Berlin

I tried a birding few days in Berlin but unfortunately forgot my camera so just had my mobile. After studying  the labyrinth of tunnels of the U-bahn, S-bahn, railways and trams. I worked out a plan from my base near Wittenbergplatz U-bahn.

Must try google translate

First stop was Karow pools and Buch in the north east of the city. Karower Teiche nature reserve is well maintained and there are four reed fringed  ponds with good viewing platforms but not much good when I was there because the ponds were mostly iced over. I did see two great white egrets with mute swan, greylag, coots and mallards. There is good surrounding habitat with scattered bushes and small patches of woodland. The first bird I saw was a “tick” a short toed treecreeper, and checked the guide to make sure it wasn’t the common treecreeper, and there were plenty of them. Saw lots of greenfinch, chaffinch, siskin, yellowhammer, great tits, blue tits, marsh tits and the white headed long tailed tits. Also great spotted woodpeckers, nuthatches, jays and hooded crows. Having read Sean’s blog I checked the goldcrest, but no firecrest. I spent the afternoon at Bucher Forst, with a good number of mature trees and small ponds (iced over). This place will definitely be worth exploring later in the year. Saw much the same here birdwise and lots of drumming in the tall trees. Did see a middle spotted ‘pecker.

Next day was Krummer lanke in the south west of Berlin, here there are lakes, forests and woodland swamps and this place was just made for woodpeckers. The lakes were iced over again and the paths were very slippery, luckily no mishaps. Here I saw the Black woodpecker, middle spotted, lesser spotted and the great spotted, and the usual woodland birds I had seen the day before. There were about 40 mandarins in a stream that was flowing, always a nice sight. The afternoon I walked to Gunewaldsee further up, where I encountered many dog walkers. There were bird feeders here and middle spotted woodpeckers made an appearance in between the barking dogs.

Mandarins on the log

I tried the Tegel region in the North west the following day, next to the business airport. I first went to Flughafensee, there were large forest areas and a large lake, not all iced over. I made my way to the raised platform and hoped to see masses of wildfowl. Not in luck. I spoke with a German birder who told me they had mostly moved north closer to the sea. I was pleased he spoke English! I did see a bittern and cormorants in breeding plumage. My new German friend told me I was better going to Tegelersee. A couple of stops further on. I then had a long walk through the forest, and hoped it was worth it as the paths were getting muddy as the ice was melting slowly. I managed to see some wildfowl at last. Tufties, goldeneye, mallard and goosanders were about it. Oh, and hundreds of coots. I was amused to see a “sounder” of wild boar. I made my way back with sore legs and neck after looking up to see what ‘peckers were drumming. I counted at least 50, all great spotted, when I could spot them. I was hoping to see crested tits in the tall pine trees but not today.

My last morning I spent in the Tiergarten near Brandenburg, and arrived later than planned as I misread the map and travelled on the U-bahn rather than the S-bahn. When I did get there I was pleased because I recognised the wide roads and the Siegessäule victory statue from 20 years earlier when I ran the Berlin marathon. In the park there were plenty of finches, blackbirds and members of the tit family, great spotted (of course) and nuthatches. Also saw a red squirrel. The best, the last I saw and  a “tick” was a goshawk, that breed in the Tiergarten,  a wonderful bird, perched high up in the trees and calling. It must be the breeding season.

Not taken on my mobile!

I made my way back to the airport early, not wanting to take the wrong train again.

Vilnius

I arrived early morning at Liverpool John Lennon airport to be greeted by an apprentice airport announcer who perhaps needs to work on his pronunciation a bit. I guess it wouldn’t be too much of a problem with Vilnius. The flight was about half an hour late and we were spared the fanfare that usually sounds when a Ryanair plane lands boasting of their 90%+ flights that do arrive on time. I checked in at my hotel and the girl at the desk looked a bit worried when I told her who I was after an earlier error with the booking, but no problems.

I managed a 3 hour bird watching stint before dusk. The temperature was about -6 and the main paths were mainly clear but some of the minor ones were like toboggan runs.   I went to Vingis park, alongside the River Neris that runs through Vilnius. Here I saw great spotted woodpecker, nuthatch, marsh, great, blue and long tailed tits. Also goldcrest, siskin and greenfinch. The corvids were plentiful with hooded crows, rooks and jackdaws about. The park covers over 400 acres and inside is a huge amphitheatre, and masses of tall trees. There was lots of floating chunks of ice flowing with the river current, and managed to see goosanders, goldeneyes and mallards. One drake goldeneye was displaying in that cold water, but the white eyed female wasn’t interested.

At breakfast next day I was greeted by a bored looking and unsmiling breakfast waitress. Breakfast was, well, not an English one. Later I went to Kaunas, about 90 kilometres west of Vilnius, and was thrilled to see two black redstarts from the train window, without binoculars, just as we were pulling out of a station. These trains were NOT HS2 or equivalent. I only did a couple of hours birding, but did see 6 species of corvid, siskin, hawfinch, greenfinch and lots of bullfinch. Also great and blue tits in masses, great spotted woodpeckers drumming away and the lighter coloured nuthatches. I spent the afternoon at Kaunas market and the whole town and surrounding areas must have turned up because there were thousands there. There were rows of markets, four a breast stretching for over a mile down the main street. There was dancing, singing and plenty of ale flowing. I enjoyed a Lithuanian version of the birdie song. I spotted a painting of a tern and fell in love with it, and at 65 litas, about sixteen pounds, I thought was a bargain. I was faced with a dilemma of how to get past Ryanair’s weight restriction on the flight home.

At breakfast next day a guest at the hotel decided to fill up his flask from the coffee dispenser, which judging from the face of miserable Miriam I don’t think was allowed. I didn’t know the Lithuanian translation to tell him the coffee was cold anyway. I went into Vilnius for a morning's birding and the overnight temperature had plummeted to about -10 and with a wind chill factor of -20, it was cold, cold and cold. I had trouble staying on my feet and felt a bit like Emile Heskey in a derby match. I saw much of the woodland birds of the first day, and again saw lots of bullfinches and right in the centre of Vilnius. The highlight was a lesser spotted woodpecker.

On the last day my flight was at midday and had a couple of hours in Vingis Park. In heavy snow I wondered whether I would see anything at all, but it did lighten a little. I was surprised by how quiet it was and the roads were deserted. I saw in the park, marsh, willow, blue, great and, the best of all, crested tits on the feeders. I seem to get the best at the end. I was informed by nervous Nerys as I checked out that it was a day of celebration, when 23 years earlier Lithuania became free from their big brother.

I went back to the airport having solved my weight problem by carrying my binoculars in my multi pocketed coat, with deep pockets. (Some say I have short arms).  I needn’t have worried about the weight because the case wasn’t weighed. I arrived back in Liverpool with the fanfare.

Lublin

They couldn’t have planned this better, flights by Ryanair departing from Liverpool to Dublin and Lublin at the same time. Could have been a problem but luckily I was awake.

Lublin Airport in Poland only opened a few months ago and its terminal is a smallish space age building with plenty of signage in English. The train station is attached to the airport, a great idea I thought until the train started, when it was as comfortable as a Russian train taking prisoners to the Gulag camps.

I took a taxi to my brand new hotel about 7 kms from Lublin. I woke early to singing black redstarts, and had an early breakfast served by the Polish girl who was also the Receptionist, who had served the evening meal. I was beginning to wonder whether she had cooked the food too. I started off my bird watching in the nice suburb of Lublin called Slawin, where there are plenty of new houses being built and new roads. I immediately saw the black redstarts, along with great tits, blue tits, chaffinch, greenfinch, tree sparrows and starlings. I saw the high fences of the Botanical Gardens and in the trees were chiffchaff, Blackcaps, wood warblers and to my delight two spotted flycatchers. After 9 am, when it opened I went into the Gardens, and found out later, through the gardener’s entrance, the sign was in Polish naturally. The gardens have over 600 species of plants throughout the world, but all signage was in Polish and Latin so I was none the wiser, so I just enjoyed them. 

Over 600 species of plants

Here I saw great spotted woodpecker, two Syrian woodpeckers, green woodpecker, nuthatch, short toed treecreeper, lesser whitethroat (which are common in Poland), fieldfare, goldcrest,  coal tits and the star of the show, a pair of pied flycatchers. Swallows were flying high. The Botanical gardens are lovely gardens spoilt a little by being close to a busy main road that was noisy to say the least. In the afternoon I went into the open air museum of the Lublin Village Muzeum Wsi Lubelskiej. I had an interesting conversation with the attendant in the souvenir shop. Her limit of English amounted to Thank you and Hello. I did manage to buy a map and (what I thought was) a fridge magnet. The buildings were from the earlier part of the 20th century but managed to get myself frogmarched out of two them, that were not in the tourist route. An easy mistake to make I thought.  There were plenty of art students painting the log cabins and scenery, but I carried on quickly not wanting to be part of arty Arabella’s dissertation. There were lots of fieldfare in the fields, starlings were mimicking them and singing warblers in the trees. I managed to see a few serin.

Next day I went to Debowka Forest, a bit further out and saw lots of woodland birds and a large bird of prey flew over, and checked later and confident it was a honey buzzard. Later a flock of birds flew high over the treetops and thought they were waxwing and later confirmed when they were fluttering about in the high branches. There were about 50 of them and I had great views. As well as the warblers I had seen the day before there were willow warblers  singing. I also saw two hawfinches and a lovely bright yellow looking crossbill feeding in pine trees  on the road leading to the Forest. It took a while to catch a glimpse. I knew they were there because they were calling.

Debowka forest

 I had a day off, sightseeing, on Thursday but saw rooks and jackdaws on the grass verges and lesser whitethroats in the bushes and on Friday before my evening flight, I went to Gorki Czechowskie and some open country land alongside. There was little in the forest and it seemed to be made out for off road bikers, not the place to attract birds, the open land was more interesting. I started off and immediately saw a common redstart showing really well. I came across my sixth warbler in Poland, whitethroat, lots of them. There were some buzzards flying over and saw more warblers; blackcaps, willows, chiffchaffs. There were many magpies and they don’t appear to be as bold as those in the UK. I had my telescope with me and was delighted to see about ten whinchats, all singing on their perches in the long grass. Also saw a female stonechat chasing off its male cousin. On the way back with some serious sunburn on my arms I flushed a grey partridge.

Whinchat

I discovered the entrance to the Botanical gardens and then realised you had to pay to get in. i deprived the University of 12 Zloty from my earlier visits , and I did notice I got a funny look from the attendant when leaving the day before when on a brief visit, or it could just have been my sunburnt arms standing out. (I will plead not guilty and cite Noel Coward). No new birds but I did try to seek out what shelter I could in the strong hot sun. I had a long look at the male syrian woodpecker drumming.

I ordered a taxi and the driver didn’t speak a word of English. I had to get multitasking Muriel to help me out, and hoped the translation didn’t take me to the wrong airport. After driving through heavy traffic I arrived well in time and managed to convince the Polish Customs I was on a bird watching holiday and not a spy when they discovered a telescope and binoculars in my hand luggage.