Gdansk and Elblag, fantastic birding

Whinchat

I haven't updated my blog lately but thought that as my trip to Northern Poland was exceptional, I would share it. I flew to Gdansk Airport and something I have got used to is the time of arrival, about 1am. I checked into the hotel, which is within walking distance from the airport. This suits me because there is some good birding spots close by. Having got my head down by 2 am, I was up again by 5 am. As usual it doesn't disappoint, although because Gdansk has expanded in recent years, areas where I used to see corn buntings is now car parks.

First bird I saw was a whinchat singing on a wire, then corn bunting. The whole area was alive with birdsong, with skylarks, whitethroat and yellowhammer. A yellow wagtail was close by and then the wonderful sound of common cranes, about 20 distant in the field.

I went to Gdansk city centre to catch my coach to Elblag, about 60 km away. Along the way there were white storks and Marsh harriers. Elblag is a small tourist town, but not much birding in the town centre. The one thing I did note was the vast numbers of house sparrows. They were everywhere.

Red-breasted flycatcher

The next morning, after a great breakfast, I went to Bazantarnia forest, about 45 min walk away. The weather was hot. On the way were common redstarts, lesser whitethroat, serin and house and tree sparrows. A red-backed shrike was on a typical perch as I walked out of the town. As I entered the forest I heard the lovely song of the red-breasted flycatcher. It took me a few minutes to locate it, not helped by some workmen working with tractors. I managed a couple of pictures, no red breast on this one. Shortly after I spotted another and this one had the red breast. I was fortunate to get a photograph. I did notice the large number of common warblers, chiffchaff, blackcap and willow warblers. Also Wood warblers were abundant. A small stream ran through the forest which I walked along, and a grey wagtail flew up, colours looking great in the sun. Feeling tired now I made my way back to the hotel and then evening meal in the town.

The next morning I went in the opposite direction intending to head for a lake, south of Elblag. The weather was hot again and sun screen and anti mosquito spray were added in equal measure. Following my GPS I headed over a motorway and into farm land and single track roads. The trees were full of birds and the loud song of the thrush nightingale was heard and was well hidden, I heard another and had a couple of glimpses and then another was perched in a tree and managed some photographs. As I walked along there were sedge warblers, then a grasshopper warbler, which I was lucky to locate. A cuckoo sounded and I found a pair in a tree. Golden orioles were singing and after a flyover, I spotted one up in the canopy but showing enough of itself for a photo.

Thrush Nightingale

After a while I noticed my GPS had lost the signal but as there were birds in abundance, I abandoned the lake plan and stayed where I was. Later a river warbler was seen and a marsh warbler. There was a large reed bed and I could hear reed, great reed and savi's warblers but couldn't see any. Two white-tailed eagles soared just above me, and a marsh Harrier close by. Walking along one of the unnamed roads I heard a common rosefinch and soon found one of the scruffiest birds you could imagine, but its song is fabulous. I have invented a word that seems to fit its song: "invertibule. It works for me anyway. Four white winged black terns flew close by, but too quick to get a picture. A green woodpecker flew as I headed back. Over 50 species. As I arrived back at the hotel, some dark clouds had appeared and rumbles of thunder in the distance. Later some rain.

The next morning, I didn't venture too far, as my coach back to Gdansk was just after midday. I just went to a local park and although it was pleasant, I didn't see anything outstanding. I was lucky with my timings to get to Sobieszewska, an island, east of Gdansk. I went to a walk in Ptasi raj, a place I have visited a number of times. I was greeted as usual by a barking dog that belongs to the owners of a cafe at the start of the reserve. Although I was there for only a couple of hours I saw some great birds, like icterine warbler, golden oriole, lesser spotted woodpecker, Wood warbler, great reed warbler, spotted flycatcher, hawfinch and red-backed shrike.

Spotted flycatcher

I made an early start next morning at 5.00 am and went back to Ptasi Raj, walking up to the reserve I saw redstart and black redstart, 2 cranes flying over, lesser whitethroat, serin and tree and house sparrows. After being barked at again I made my way along a narrow path, with reed beds either side, I saw red-backed shrike, reed warblers, reed buntings, a white-tailed eagle with a fish being mobbed by a-black headed gull, marsh harrier, bearded tits, goosanders and many mute swans on the "dead Vistula".

Later I went into the forest and battled with the insects, all after my blood. Whilst I have a good insect repellant I still had a few mosquito bites. There were many wood warblers singing and lots of phylloscs. I heard an icterine warbler, went in search of it off the path and a lesser spotted woodpecker appeared. I then heard a cuckoo and saw it fly a couple of times, golden orioles were singing and I saw them in the canopy. Later I saw an icterine warbler and tried for a photograph, whilst trying a lesser spotted woodpecker appeared again and my attention was diverted. Then a golden oriole was above me and a cuckoo just to the left, and a wood warbler in front. My camera was switching every which way, and the lesser spotted woodpecker won.

Wood warbler

I headed towards the baltic sea, and a great reed warbler showed, although distant. There was not much to view on the sea other than cormorants, gulls and mute swans. There was a sign which I managed to translate saying "No entry" because of nesting ringed plover, although some Polish sunseekers were ignoring the signs and carried on regardless. I headed back into the forest and more icterine warblers, although no success for a photograph. A grey headed woodpecker appeared high up and then two flew past. I headed back, pleased with the birds I had seen.

Cuckoo

The next day I went to the other end of the island and I had an early start. This was probably the best day. The reserve is called "Mewla Lache" and is fantastic all year round. I had just entered the reserve, which runs alongside the wide vistula river. The first thing I saw was a beaver swimming away from me. I hadn't taken the camera out of the bag. Walking up a bird flew up and landed on a branch in front of me, a common rosefinch in breeding plumage, I managed a few pictures before it flew. An odd sounding cuckoo was perched in a tree above me and seemed oblivious to my presence. There were a few goosander nest boxes in the trees along the bank, and a few goosanders were on the river. Further up there is a raised platform overlooking some reedbeds and a small pond, a great reed warbler was singing. Yellowhammers were singing and a red-backed shrike was about. Then the delightful sound of terns, sandwich, common and little. The little terns were flying above my head across the river.

Common rosefinch

I made my way to a large metal tower where you can view the baltic and the vistula and beaches. There were six shelduck , 10 dunlin and two grey plover. Also about 300 seals on some sand banks quite distant. I hoped for some little tern photographs but they were too high. Then a beaver appeared, and a Polish birder at the tower thought it was ill. It did seem odd to be out in the sun at midday. A short eared owl then flew up in front of us.


I had a wander in the dunes and could hear wood lark but failed to pick them up. More yellowhammer and rosefinches were singing. I made my way back, pleased with what I had seen.


The next day I was heading home but still had about 3 hours to get some birding done in the morning. I went to Ptasi Raj and saw a pair of red-backed shrikes, bearded tits over the vast reedbeds. A had brief views of a garden warbler, singing continuously. Then a wheatear popped up on the path. I headed back into the forest and I managed a photograph of an icterine warbler, albeit a not very good one. Then I heard a call of a black woodpecker and it flew across me, high up. I was ending on a high.

Female red-backed shrike

Waiting at the bus stop, three common cranes were circling over the dead vistula and a common tern was fishing. Then, high up, two honey buzzards flew over. I had 108 species in the week, which I was pleased with considering my lack of transport. I made my way to the airport, and everything had run smoothly, which hasn't always been the case in my Polish travels....

Stormy Gdansk in October

My latest trip to Gdansk wasn’t where I had planned but decided to change my travel arrangements because of news of strikes and demonstrations in Polish Cities on Monday. I stayed near to the airport, and had a good couple of hours birding before the rain arrived mid morning.

I made my way to a lake, I have been to a few times, with the airport close by. I heard and saw a black redstart from a factory roof. In the scrub I saw lots of goldfinch and a whinchat, with skylarks and meadow pipits flying over. There were a few ducks in the pond, goldeneye, pochard and tufted ducks, with wigeon and mallards feeding in the field close by. There were two families of cranes in the field, that kept their distance when they saw me inching closer to get better pictures. A green sandpiper called and flew, and I flushed a snipe.

Female goldeneye

There was a lot of activity in some rowan trees, close to the lake, with song thrush, blackbird and fieldfare. Black redstarts again with finches, including brambling. Yellowhammers and corn buntings were also calling. A huge flock of geese were flying over, which from their calls were taiga bean geese. Rain started to fall and I made my way back to the hotel to move to a cheaper hotel a bit further out.

Common crane

There was not a direct bus route to the new hotel and as I couldn’t check in until 2 pm and I walked, and the rain had eased. I was however getting windier. Not much to see on the way, apart from some cranes flying quite low.

After checking in at the new hotel, I immediately went to a nature reserve opposite. It was quite windy now and not much to see or hear. A lake in the park only had a family of mute swans, goosander and mallards.

Common merganser (Goosander)

I made my way to Sobieszewska the next day, but faced a problem because I couldn’t check in until 4pm. It wasn’t raining but was quite windy. With my suitcase I tried to do a bit of birding but it wasn’t very productive. There was a large tit flock, which included the white headed long-tailed tits and crested tits. Brambling were among the chaffinches.

Now Wednesday I hadn’t had many opportunities for birding and wanted to start early the next day. The weather forecast was not good. I heard reports of a “landscape changing” storm. I made a short journey to and walked along the River Vistula. The river looked choppy and a number of branches had fallen. I was wary about walking in the wooded area but was hampered when the path near to the river had flooded, so I had no choice. The noise from the Baltic and the rustling trees made it impossible to hear anything. The only birds in the river were goosanders, cormorants and gulls. When I reached the coastline I tried to find a sheltered area to scan the coast. The waves were high and in the exposed areas it was very blustery.

I saw goldeneye, cormorant and a vast array of gulls and two sandwich terns on a sand bank. Sheltering near to the beach were mallards, teal, wigeon, scaup, tufted ducks and 3 slavonian grebes. I walked further along to the tower hide but it was near impossible to stay on your feet in the high winds and hat had to come off. Near to the hide was a bar tailed godwit, with sadly one leg.

Slavonian grebes

Bar tailed godwit

Sandwich terns

I had had enough of being battered with winds and rain started to fall, to add insult to injury. I decided to return and the trees swaying had not abated. Luckily no trees had fallen. I came across numerous tit flocks, which included willow, coal, marsh, crested and Long tailed. Amongst them I also saw treecreepers and goldcrest, with the odd chiffchaff.

After having my evening meal, I had a knock on the door in the hotel about 10 pm to report that the water was off and there was only bottled water to wash, etc.

After breakfast the owner advised the engineers would be out later and hopefully fixed later in the day. I stayed closer to the hotel and went to the Ptasi Raj reserve. The wind had not dropped and rain was forecast most of the day. I made my way to the 2nd tower hide. Two large pine trees had fallen in the storm yesterday. It was raining heavy now and the hide only partially sheltered from the wind and rain. In the large lake there were goldeneye, tufted ducks, teal, mallards, gadwall, shoveler, wigeon and scaup. I also saw great crested and little grebes. I was also made up to see a red crested pochard and a female smew. In the reeds in front of the hide, there were bearded tits flying low. It would have been impossible to see them in the swaying reeds. I had stayed over 3 hours in the hide and it had rained all that time. After the rain had eased I walked up to the coastline, and the waves were high again. I scanned for about half an hour before it started to rain again. I saw common and velvet scoters, also a little gull. I made my way back to the hotel, in the rain, with my waterproofs.

Red crested pochard with tufted ducks

My last day, the wind had dropped, but rain was forecast. I had a good hour’s birding before the rain. I had fantastic views of bearded tits, and numerous tit flocks. Also reed bunting, brambling and goldcrest. The rain started and I went back to the hotel and make my way to the city and then the airport. Whilst at the bus stop, there were huge flocks of geese migrating and saw, taiga bean, greylag and white fronted geese. The rain got heavier and heavier and was torrential when we made our way to the aeroplane.

It wasn’t ideal weather for birding but still enjoyable to be in Poland again.

Ptasi Raj and Rezerwat przyrody Mewia Łacha, Gdansk, Poland

After a 2 and a half hour delay leaving from Manchester, from that well known cheap flight airline with hidden extras. I caught a bus to Gdansk city centre and somehow managed to purchase a train ticket rather than a bus ticket from the “Bilety” machine. It wasn’t until I was on the bus that I realised because the ticket wouldn’t fit the validating machine. I wasn’t the only one. Having experienced Polish bus inspectors before, I had a nervous 40 minute bus journey and luckily none appeared.

I exchanged my money in one of many Kantor shops and bought some proper bus tickets in Gdansk and boarded another bus to Sobrieszewo. This time the validating machine on the bus was faulty and I couldn’t validate my ticket. That meant a free ride but I won't mention it to the Bus Inspectors, just in case.

Although I was still early the hotel staff let me book in and I took a stroll down to the beach and forest area alongside. I would think about half of the Island is forested and this being the first time I have visited Gdansk in May I was hopeful that I would see plenty of birdlife.

The first bird I spotted was a black redstart singing from the roof of the hotel, and was to see it all four days in the same place. Pied flycatchers were singing, although being later afternoon it was a little quiet. Wood warblers were singing, also blackcaps and willow warblers. By far the most common species was chaffinch, they were everywhere. Swallows, swift and martins were circling above. Making my way to the beach, I saw a long tailed duck quite distant on the Baltic, cormorants flying and a few mute swans close in.

Wheatear on beach

On the beach I saw white and yellow wagtails and wheatear.

I had a brief look in at Ptasi raj, and on the main lake were goosanders, great crested grebes, cormorants and tufted ducks. I made my way back to the hotel and after an evening meal and had an early night after having driven to the airport in Manchester at 2.30 am.

I woke early and had a pre breakfast walk and was greeted by the black redstart. Wood warblers and pied flycatchers were everywhere. I also was pleased to see a wryneck. After an excellent breakfast I caught a bus to Rezerwat przyrody Mewia Łacha, which runs alongside the River Vistula. Walking to the reserve another black redstart. Then I heard and saw a river warbler, fantastic. Also icterine warblers, wood warblers, whitethroat and lesser whitethroat. Also hawfinch and siskin. Then I heard and managed brief views of a thrush nightingale, loud song that they have. As is often the case for me the insects were causing a problem and I was daubed in my super powerful insect repellant, and despite the heat I thought it best to wear my jacket. Then I spotted a beaver swimming towards me and it briefly stopped by its lodge and carried on passing within six feet of me. The first wild beaver I have seen. 

Beaver swimmlng in the River Vistula

A minute later a cuckoo fly up in front of me. 

Cuckoo

Golden oriole were also singing. I made my way to the tower hide and was sweating in the heat and the jacket just had to come off. I heard lots of bird song below me and there were over 100 yellow wagtails, some black headed too. Looking down to the shore line, I saw a grey plover with it’s lovely black chest and belly. There were ruff, greenshank, dunlin and common sandpipers there. Common, sandwich terns and little terns too. Seals could be seen on the sand banks in the distance.

Black tern

I then spotted some black terns, about 20 on the river and I went back there, also the odd little tern with them. I made my way back and caught a ferry across the river. Having just landed and heard a call above me which I immediately recognized, a white winged black tern, one of my favourites. A white stork also flying over. I walked alongside the river and corn buntings were perched up on bushed singing and lots of skylarks were singing. Looking out over the farmland I saw a buzzard with prey and then a male marsh harrier. More yellow wagtails too.

I was a little weary after the day I had had and made my way back to the ferry and a bus back to the hotel. Not surprising really I didn’t make my pre breakfast walk next morning and had another excellent breakfast with the same music being played. I do wish they would change the tapes occasionally.

I took a bus to the Ptasi Raj reserve, which translates to “Birding paradise”. Just as I was about to enter the bus I heard a great reed warbler and made a note to visit there on my return. At Ptasi raj there is some work being done  and part of a path was closed. I walked past the extensive reedbed and immediately saw bearded reedlings. Goosanders there with chicks and a kestrel out hunting. Reed and sedge warblers and reed buntings were singing too. The whole place was a mass of noise with the marsh frogs croaking. On the main lake it was quite quiet, with a pair of greylag geese with goslings, a fem smew with a small number of tufted ducks, mallards, cormorants and mute swans. I also have fantastic views of bearded reedlings perched on the tall stems. Whilst trying to photograph a reed bunting I stumbled upon a reed warbler and photographed that instead. Then a big commotion, all the ducks were up, a white tailed eagle was flying over. I made my way to the shoreline and more wheatear and yellow wagtails, then a close red backed shrike with a yellow wagtail in the same bush about a foot away from each other. 

Yellow wagtail

The heat was causing a problem again and it was tough walking on the loose sand. It was more like one step forward and two steps back. Common terns were on the mouth of the river, always delightful watching them.

Red backed shrike

Eventually I made it to the forest and decided to walk back to the hotel and was glad I did as I had brief glimpses of golden orioles and a crested tit. A great spotted woodpecker and nuthatch were showing. I hadn’t seen too many of those. Later, after my evening meal I decided to look for the great reed warblers, they weren't singing in the same place but a short stroll along the river I saw two, singing away.

The next morning I decided to transfer to another hotel near to Gdansk airport. I had a pre breakfast walk and had fantastic views of golden orioles. Whilst cleaning my boots in the grounds of the hotel a crested tit and common redstart passed above me. I caught my bus about 11am to Gdansk city centre and another bus to the airport. I was grateful that I had the correct ticket because two bus ticket inspectors boarded the bus. I wondered whether they sensed my guilty look.

I checked into my new hotel and made my way to a small lake I had visited on a previous occasion. There were many corn buntings skylarks singing. Also about a dozen whinchats perched up. On the lake were 8 wood sandpipers and 6 little ringed plovers. Also yellow and white wagtails and linnets. Passing through a small village and doing my best to avoid dogs but ended up reacting like Hyacinth Bucket when Onslow’s dog was barking. Yellowhammer were singing and then spotted a white stork in its nest. I then saw a stonechat near to an old disused railway. It looked a lot whiter than a European stonechat. I managed to get a couple of photographs. 

Presumed European stonechat

When I got back to my hotel I sent the photographs to Birding Poland facebook page. They responded immediately and thought it was a siberian stonechat. They posted the photographs on their page, only to find later they had changed their minds and it was a European stonechat.

Corn bunting

I managed a couple of hours birding before my flight next morning and more of the same plus a grasshopper warbler reeling. Walking towards the airport a sparrowhawk was flying by the terminal building. About 100 species I has spotted in the few days I was there and was pleased but missed out on a few others I had expected to see.

Whinchat

This time my cheap flight airline with hidden extras was only 20 minutes late, and it took what seemed like an eternity to get through Border Control. I caught the bus to the huge car park and then realised I couldn’t remember exactly where I had left it. I had forgotten to note the row I was in. My excuse was that it was 3.30 am when I had parked it and was still half asleep. Note to self remember to write down the row next time. I had about 10 minutes to go before the surcharges started.

Gdansk again

My final holiday of 2015 was in the same place as my first, a long weekend in my favourite city of Gdansk, and was a great affair. I started out when storm Desmond was just starting, luckily (for me) it was flights flying west that were affected, and I went in the opposite direction.

My flight was slightly delayed, when everyone was requested to remove their hand luggage from the overhead lockers, and a minute later asked to put them back. Still not sure why we had to do that. The temperature in Poland was quite a few degrees colder than the UK, and it was quite challenging to make my way through the old town on this Saturday evening. There were thousands packed in the square. Using a suitcase with wheels was nigh impossible on the cobbled stones. It wasn't so much one step forward two steps back, more one step forward, two steps left. I was only able to move as quickly as a Liverpool fullback. The Christmas market stalls were jam packed, with bands playing and people passing me from every possible direction. This Christmas tree in the square put lots of the weak efforts in the UK to shame. I found my excellent hotel, eventually.

Beaver activity

After an early hearty breakfast, I made my way to Sobrieszswska, a man-made island by the mouth of the Vistula river. Making my way along the bank of the river, it quickly became apparent of very recent beaver activity, although I was not lucky enough to see any. On the river were plenty of Goosanders flying up and down, with goldeneye and long tailed ducks in quite large flocks. To the left in the wooded area, there were plenty of nuthatches, great spotted woodpeckers and treecreepers, with lots of the usual tit flocks, including willow tits. Blackbirds, redwings and fieldfare were also in large numbers. Further up the river looking out to see there were lots of gulls, with little gulls out at sea.

White tailed eagle scattered the gulls

There were constantly flushed by a white tailed eagle by a beached island. Large numbers of herons were moved by a trickle of walkers. It was a sunny day and as it was Sunday, the quiet start was no longer.

Herons quickly moved by walkers

I looked from a tower hide out to sea, and saw common and velvet scoters, with long tailed ducks and great crested grebes. I picked out a slavonian grebe, a lifer for me with goldeneye close to the shore.

Slavonian grebe

It was starting to get busy as many people were out for a walk, and looking for amber on the beach. I made my way back to my hotel, this time avoiding the town square.

Female smew

I started out early again and went to the other side of the island of Sobrieszewska, to a nature reserve called Ptasi Raj, which translates to “Birding paradise”. It was a Monday and thankfully much quieter (people wise). I made my way to the first tower hide and did not see much apart from a small number of male smew. The next tower hide was also quiet but small numbers of goldeneye, goosanders and tufted ducks on the large lake. About three female smew landed in front of the hide. bearded tits were flying in the reed bed in front of the hide. About a dozen swans and about 20 coots were also on the lake. A white tailed eagle flew over.

Snow buntings on beach

I made my way to the coast and saw about 30+ snow buntings on the shore line, and constantly flying to and fro. Greenfinch were in the same area. Looking out at sea, there were large number of scoters, long tailed duck, great crested grebe and eiders were flying. On my way back I had fabulous views of a black woodpecker. I was able to observe this fantastic bird for quite a while before it flew off.

Fabulous black woodpecker

The days in December are much shorter of course and it was now almost dark and only just past 3.30. I headed back to the bus stop for the 186 bus. It was an enjoyable couple of days and began to wish I had booked another few days.

Bialystok trip

An evening flight into Warsaw, arriving in the early hours of the morning, suggested it would be best to check into a hotel close to the airport. I just missed the night bus, so I decided to walk to my hotel, which only took about 15 minutes. After a hearty breakfast, I caught the 175 bus to the centre of Warsaw. Having been in the Capital before I know how easy it is to lose your bearings. From the centre I had to take the underground to the Bus station for my coach. After a bit of help from some Varsovians I eventually arrived and tried to board the coach. This can be best described as a scrum in a rugby union match as I vied with Polish passengers to get the best seats.

Common redstart

I arrived in Bialystok on time, and was immediately struck by how clean and modern the city is, litter is almost non-existent and no chewing gum stuck to the pavement. It was quite hot and I found my way to the Villa Pastel. After checking in I quickly found one of the many parks, and was quickly onto an icterine warbler, redstart, hawfinch and middle spotted woodpecker. The centre of the park contained a zoo, and although it was interesting to see wolves and owls in their pens, I was more interested in the wildlife in the park. Later I found a wooded area, and saw a few people walking in park with football shirts. I was later to discover that Bialystok were playing Lechia Gdansk in Poland’s top division. Nothing particularly of note in the park, apart from many great spotted woodpeckers and wood warblers. I didn’t want to hang around because I had forgotten to put my anti insect repellent in the bag. After a few bites I made my way back to the guest house for an evening meal. I heard the football chants from the winning team; Jagiellonia Białystok, that were the same as in England, just the words were different, but I heard no-one singing “give us a J”.

The next day I woke early and had a pre breakfast walk in the park and was pleased to see marsh, willow and crested tits, as well as hawfinch, serin, redstart, black redstart and pied flycatcher. Golden orioles were heard but not seen. After a good breakfast it was nice to hear some modern Polish music in the background. I decided to discover the area by foot and saw an interesting area called Stawy Dojlidzkie. It was mixed habitat of marsh, reedbed, forest and open grassland as well as many ponds. Part of the bigger lake was fenced off for watersports, but finding my way round to the other side there were a few paths that led to the reedbeds. There were many warblers; marsh, sedge, reed and great reed. Reed buntings, female bearded tit, tree sparrows and starlings. Making my way round I was made aware that I was not welcome by the hundreds of noisy black headed gulls that were constantly screaming at me to go. On the lake there were a few mallards and coots, with some great crested grebes on nests. Later some marsh terns were flying acrobatically as they do, whiskered and black terns, also many martins and swifts. I saw marsh harriers and buzzards, and one sparrowhawk. There was a small island in the lake with a wooden bridge and a boardwalk around the perimeter. There was a white stork there that flew before my camera was ready.

Common buzzard

After there I went into the wooded area and saw lots and lots of wood warblers. I have never seen so many. I heard golden orioles but again failed to see them. Also willow warblers, blackcap and chiffchaff, song thrush, fieldfare and many blackbirds. I made my way back to the centre, exhausted by the walking and decided it would be better to catch the bus next time. My trouble with bus tickets in Polish cities continued as there were no ticket machines and you either bought them in the kiosks and shops or by mobile, not an option for me on my network. Few of the older people spoke English, least of all the kiosk assistants, I tried to write down what I wanted to no avail. I did buy some tickets but I had no idea whether they were the right ones.

One of many wood warblers

The next day I caught the 16 bus, hoping no ticket inspector boarded. My google maps told me 12 stops but in actual fact it was 15 stops, and I had to walk quite a distance to get to Antoniuk Nature reserve, a large wooded area. Here I immediately saw mistle thrush and bullfinch as well as the many, many wood warblers. It was quite an experience listening to them singing and calling. I heard also garden warbler, but didn’t see one. Golden orioles were about but impossible to see. Here I saw a lifer in a Pallas’s warbler, goldcrest size and very pale and striking yellow supercilium. I saw goldcrest and also delighted to see a firecrest. Honey buzzard and common buzzards were about also high up. It had been only a moderate birding day but still delightful to see a black woodpecker in flight.

Going back was easier as I found the correct bus stop that I should have alighted earlier. I was still wary of Inspectors on the bus but fortune was on my side again. Later at the hotel I had a security alert on the security software on my tablet, warning of someone tracking me the unsecure network, I immediate disabled the wi-fi. Later I tried to log in and it would not connect. In trying to reconnect I inadvertently locked the tablet. The only way I could unlock the tablet was to send an email, but as I couldn’t connect I couldn’t send an email, basically I couldn’t use the tablet until I arrived home. This wasn’t good because I hadn’t decided where to go the next day.

Common rosefinch

After a good breakfast with the now boring music playing in the background, on what must be a loop. I came up with the idea to go back to where I went the first day but tried a different area. It was a good decision because I saw some wonderful birds, including whopper swans with cygnets, red necked grebes, great white egret, common tern, and my favourite white winged black terns. Above there were many buzzards, pair of honey buzzards, white tailed eagle, kestrel and marsh harriers. Smaller birds included male rosefinches, whitethroat and all the other warblers from the earlier visit. I was also fortunate enough to see two thrush nightingales. A fabulous song that can be heard from quite a distance. There was a bittern booming but not seen. The weather was now beginning to get hot and my sunscreen and insect repellent was doused on my face and arms in equal measure.

My last day did not exactly go to plan. I had noticed the roadworks when travelling from Warsaw to Bialystok and the queuing traffic. I had thought about getting an earlier coach but I was hampered by my lack of tablet, as they can only be bought online, and my experience of Polish bus drivers is that they don’t speak any English. I decided to get the train, and after purchasing the ticket at the train station the assistant told me, travel to Malinniki, and then transfer to a replacement bus to Warsaw. I arrived in Warsaw more or less on time but I had no idea where the bus stop was for the airport. After a while I spotted the 175, but in the opposite direction. The route is different for getting to the airport, so I cursed my luck. Eventually I found my stop in the heat and with temperatures getting over 30 degrees, with carrying my case, it was uncomfortable to say the least.

Red necked grebe

I was at the airport in next to no time and luckily the flight left on time, and back to Liverpool. It was immediately noticeable the litter that was strewn across the roads and verges. Bialystok was as clean as you could wish to see.

Trip to Szczecin, via Berlin

I took another trip to Poland, this time on the German border in the city of Szczecin, or the German name of Stettin. It appeared quite different than other cities in Poland I have visited, but interesting. There was much German influence in the City. I flew to Berlin Schonefelde Airport, took a train journey on the S Bahn to Berlin Zentraler Omnibusbahnhof, thankfully shortened to ZOB and took a coach from there to Poland, some 150 kilometres.

I found my Noclegi, Polish for accommodation, but sounds more like a protest march. I didn’t realise until I arrived that it was a hostel. It was in a former life a grand hotel converted. It was in fact far better than some supposed hotels I have stayed in in the past, and I was pleased with my stay there. After a good night’s sleep and an early start, I continued my love hate relationship with the Polish public transport ticketing system. Having thought I had finally mastered how the system works, Szczecin Transport threw me in confusion again. The first thing I learned was the ticket machines are not touch screen, only work with mobile phones, and not in English. My first day, Sunday, no kiosks were open to buy tickets, drivers don’t take money as you enter a bus until after 6 pm, so I decided to discover some of the parks by foot. Luckily they were not too far away, I started out about 8 am and found in the tall trees, chaffinches, greenfinch, fieldfare, blackbirds, starlings, house sparrows, treecreepers and many nuthatch, gs woodpeckers, great and blue tit. Always a pleasure to see one of my favourites, hawfinches and it wasn’t even 9 am.

Fieldfare taking a bath

I stumbled across a nature reserve and although you could hear the buzz from the city, it was still pleasant and peaceful. I saw many more treecreepers, also goldcrest, middle spotted woodpeckers, jays, siskin, marsh tit, long tailed tit. Later it turned out to be a good raptor day, because as well as common buzzard I came across at least 6 rough legged buzzards, goshawk and red kite. Common cranes also are delightful to see, and to hear their calls. I eventually found my way to a place called Arkonska, and it seemed half the population of Szczecin was enjoying the afternoon sunshine. Having been on my feet all day I made my way back, but was moving as slow as a Liverpool full back.

The next day I bought my tram tickets from a nearby kiosk, I had anticipated the assistant at the kiosk couldn’t speak English so I wrote down “two one hour tram tickets” on a scrap of paper. Either she couldn’t understand my writing or I had clicked on Portuguese instead of Polish on my google translator. Eventually I managed to purchase the right tickets. I got on the No. 1 tram heading for Glebokie and Polish ticket inspectors were already looking at everyone’s tickets. It was after all Monday morning rush hour and the trams and roads were very busy. I made it to the tram terminus and entered the park and it was delightful. Immediately seeing the usual woodland birds, there was not a lot on the very still lake. A few mallard, great crested grebes and two goldeneyes, looking up there were a few migrating greylags flying in their v formation. I came across a grassy area, seeing skylark and yellowhammer and tree sparrow. I heard then managed to locate a green woodpecker.

Male tree sparrow

Further into the forest the trees taller with many pines. Crested tits and willow tits were spotted. I then heard and saw two black woodpeckers, what fantastic birds they are. Many ravens were displaying and then I saw a lifer, a black kite, more rough legged buzzards, common buzzards and sparrowhawks. I made my way back to the no. 1 tram, pleased with my day’s efforts.

I tried the opposite direction, south east of Szczecin, taking the 87 bus and then the 61 to Park Lesny Zdroje, which took just short of an hour. My bus ticket only gave me an hour, and I was in the limit, just. I made my way to the park, which meant walking under the underpass of a motorway, and was very noisy and I couldn’t wait to get into the more peaceful forest. Many trees had been felled and it was not as productive as I might have hoped. I did see some good birds though, with Hawfinch, bullfinch, black and green and great spotted woodpeckers, as well as the usual woodland birds. There were seven species of tit in the forest. There were many buzzards calling here. More common cranes here too.

Making my way back towards the bus stop I decided to walk over the bridge and look at the Odra river, which runs through Szczecin. Not much at all, I could see some cormorants, heron, tufted ducks, teals and mute swans. I underestimated the distance to the next bus stop and two buses passed had me cursing like a Polish truck driver. I found the bus stop and flagged the bus driver to stop, and fortunately he did.

Ortolan bunting

My last day in Szczecin I decided to go to Glebokie again, and I took the No.1 tram. As the forest was so big I could take a different route. As per usual I arranged with the staff at the hostel to leave my luggage to pick up later, for my coach at 3.45 pm. I saw the birds I had seen a couple of days earlier, but saw a lesser spotted woodpecker, another of my favourites. This bird seems to me to have character, the way they move and very active. I came across some open farmland and saw skylarks and yellowhammers and with them were Ortolan buntings. There were many of them feeding on the ground.

I made my way back to the tram terminus and saw two mistle thrush, surprised that they were the first I had seen. I arrived at the coach stop and arrived in Berlin ZOB on time and went to Grunnberger Allee, one stop before the airport, for an overnight stay. I had an early walk around a small lake called Schonefelde Seen, not too many birds about, highlight being treecreepers and great crested grebe.

I took the hotel shuttle bus and everything seemed to be running smoothly and I dropped off my luggage at the Check in desk. I was just about to go through the security area when I realised I had a bottle of water, which I couldn’t take through. I took the lid off and went to drink some when oops, I dropped the bottle and water went all over the boarding card and passport, which were in my other hand. Claudia the cleaner moped up after me, recovering and throwing the now half empty offending bottle away, I waited in the long queue fretting that the ink would run on the boarding card. The bar code was scanned, and it took the security guard a few goes for it to be accepted. Going through the scanners it sounded like tubula bells was playing because as walking through I was beeped, and was searched. My coat failed because of a chip in my bank card, my hand luggage failed because of the batteries in the camera. I had to empty everything in the bag, and my pockets of my coat. Germany was not letting me go from their country without some discomfort. My embarrassment was like being an English cricketer in the world cup. I made it back to Manchester airport glad that there were no hold ups.

Polish plugs, pouncers and passengers

I arrived at Gdansk Lech Walesa airport at 12.30 in the morning, my third trip to the city in less than twelve months. I checked in at the hotel just a stone’s throw away from the arrival lounge. I didn’t have the best of starts on Friday. I had forgotten to pack my travel adapter plug, a necessity in getting about. I took a short trip to the departure area at the airport to purchase a new plug, only to discover when I returned to the hotel, I had in fact bought the wrong one, or at least one that doesn’t work in Poland.

I went back to the airport, only to be told by the assistant that as I had opened the packaging I couldn’t exchange it. After negotiating a deal with the manager I ended up exchanging for one that did work, and had to pay the difference.

I made my way to the guest house and immediately looked out of the room window and in the gardens of the adjoining properties were great tits by the dozen, blue tit, robin, blackbirds, jay, two great spotted woodpeckers and two hawfinches. I was starting to feel better after the plug debacle. I ventured over to a wooded area opposite in Jascowa Dolina. After a quiet start, I saw a black woodpecker flying, and in trying to get a better view then was surrounded by a host of birds, including nuthatches, treecreepers, goldcrest, crested, coal and long tailed tits, also great spotted woodpeckers. The usual corvids were flying over, including ravens. Making my way back to the guest house it started to snow heavy.

I woke early next day to see a blanket of snow, and wondered whether the public transport would be affected. I asked the guest house owner and he said “used to snow here, everything keeps running”. I was on a tight schedule to make the bus to the Island called Sobieszewska. I needed to get a bus for two stops, then a tram for 8 stops to catch the 186 bus. Unfortunately I missed it by a couple of minutes, realising not as many buses run on a Saturday. The next bus was an hour and half later. I decided to go for the 112 bus that took me to the island but the other end of where I wanted to be. Looking out on to the Vistula river, I could see long tailed ducks, goldeneyes and goosanders. I heard calling which I didn’t recognise, and using an app on my mobile, discovered it was male long tailed ducks calling. My new travel plug was already having benefits, with my fully charged mobile.

 I saw a raised platform for viewing over a reedbed and pond. I heard bearded tits, but didn’t see them. Walking up towards the tip of the Island, I saw numerous fieldfare, blackbird, bullfinches, greenfinches and siskin. I walked up further towards the Mewia Lacha nature reserve.  I walked up a tall steel tower platform and two Polish birders with telescopes were looking out to the Baltic sea. They only spoke a little English, but they allowed me to look at two waders through a telescope. An oystercatcher and a dunlin, didn’t seem so exciting. I was to learn later though that these two birds made the news in Poland. It is very rare for these waders to be seen there in winter. Further along the spit was more exciting for me, a white tailed eagle sat waiting. I thanked my Polish birder friends. I don’t think I will recognise them again though, they wore balaclavas.

Oystercatcher and dunlin, rare winter visitors to Poland

I then proceeded to walk along the coast line, not that I could see much of the Baltic sand, it was mostly snow. I perhaps underestimated the time it would take to walk towards the other end of the Island. I was stopping occasionally to look to see what was out at sea and to look for amber stones, after discovering about amber being washed up in the coast after my trip to Palanger, Lithuania late last year. I saw a few hundred cormorants flying, common scoters, velvet scoters and more goldeneye and long tailed ducks. There were numerous gulls too. I arrived eventually at the other end of the Island, and the light was already fading. I looked in at the ptasi raj lake and saw immediately one of the most handsome ducks going; smews, with the males being particularly splendid. I caught the 186 bus and arriving back in Gdansk it was snowing again. I was tired now after all my walking exploits on the mixture of snow and sand.

The next day was sunny but colder and it was slippery under foot. I decided to stay fairly local and went to the President Reagana park which is alongside the Baltic sea. I took the bus there although it would have been quicker to walk. Arriving at the park I immediately came across hundreds of siskin feeding from the tops of the tall trees. They were flying from tree to tree and more joined in. I didn’t see a great deal else. There were of course tit flocks, with the highlight being marsh tits. The lake in the park was completely frozen and not a mallard in sight. They had flown to the coast line, further out were long tailed ducks, goldeneyes and gulls. Scoters were further out again. I made my way back to the guest house and on the bus Polish ticket Inspectors (four of them) entered and at least two unfortunates were collared. A Liverpool nightclub bouncer lookalike Inspector took a long time looking at my ticket and asked me something in Polish. I told him I was English and he said “ah British” no doubt ready to add to his commission of ticket non payers and hand me an on the spot fine. Fortunately (for me, not him) he misread my ticket and I was in the time allowed. When I left the bus the Polish ticket pouncers were escorting another poor soul from the bus. I spent a couple of hours at Jascowa Dolina and saw more siskin but not in the numbers as earlier. A middle spotted woodpecker was the highlight. There were at least six buzzards soaring. There was much that I had seen a couple of days earlier with a willow tit calling.

The next day I was back at Sobieszewska and this time I made the 186 bus. It was certainly quieter than on previous visits to the reserve, but when you see, white tailed eagles, smew, long tailed ducks, goosanders, scoters you can’t complain. I saw the usual woodland birds, with many great spotted woodpeckers.

Baltic sea on the left looking towards Mewia lacha nature reserve

My last day was spent at jascowa Dolina again. This was because I had an evening flight and I had to check out of the guest house early. I didn’t want to carry my luggage around, and the guest house owner kindly let me leave my luggage at the reception. Surprisingly it turned out to be the best birding day. Immediately entering the forest I saw a goshawk flying over, it was a fantastic sight. I saw 100+ fieldfare also bullfinch, brambling and more siskin. The buzzards were soaring again and a sparrowhawk spotted later. I located a lesser spotted woodpecker and seven species of tit. The usual woodland birds were seen, and I heard the woodpeckers drumming for the first time. I had read somewhere it is usually the end of January they start, and it was 3rd Feb, so bang on cue. I must have read it in one of Gerard’s books.

Nature reserve off Jascowa Dolina

I made my way back to the guest house and thanked the owner for his hospitality and he suggested I must come again. He certainly was very welcoming and helpful. I made my way to the airport and everything was on time, but arriving in Liverpool, we were kept waiting with the seat belt lights still showing much longer than usual after the plane had come to a halt. The front cabin door opened with the seatbelt signs still showing and two police officers entered the plane and escorted off a passenger. Everyone was guessing what had happened, although I expect the Poles had a better idea because they outnumbered the Brits by 50 to 1, and the escorted passenger was Polish. Then the mad scramble off the plane into the Border control passport area.

Rob